October 2012

The Four Seasons of Gold

Galerie Elsa Vanier, Paris, France Galerie Elsa Vanier in Paris, France, is a fairly recent addition to the gallery list for AJF. Elsa Vanier is one of the owners of the gallery and the one who makes the final decisions about the gallery show schedule. In a recent interview she said, ‘What I like about jewelry is something about the way it survives us and what it teaches us about past civilization: Something deeply human. For me, a piece of jewelry is a continuity of our personality, it does not need to be costly, but either it is a fashion accessory or it is a work of art.’ Her choice is the work of art using mostly gold and stones with an excellent designer. This month her excellent designer of choice is the jewelry company Niessing in a show she calls The Four Seasons of Gold.

Susan Cummins: Elsa, why did you call the show The Four Seasons of Gold?

Elsa Vanier: From green to reddish, red and white, Niessing masters all the luxurious hues of gold. They do their utmost to offer most pieces in the four main colors, especially bands. They also search constantly for new ‘effects’ and recently invented aura, a 750 gold that ‘goes’ from red to white (see, for example, the Aura rings). For me green is a landscape at spring, yellow is summer, red autumn and white or grey winter . . . thus the name.

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Rebel Metal: Red Gold

Harold O’Connor, Pin No 2, 2012, pin, sterling silver, reticulated silver, 18-karat granulation, 18-karat red gold, 18-karat yellow gold, 2 x 1.5 inches Susan Cummins: Why did you call the show Rebel Metal? Patricia Faber: Titles for shows usually rise up through some kind of mostly unconscious word association based on the theme itself or

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The Birthday Boys- Part 2 Peter Skubic

Peter Skubic This month Gallery Loupe is celebrating a birthday date.  Both Thomas Gentille and Peter Skubic were born on August 11 and so the gallery has paired them for the show Birthday Boys.  I have separated the interviews into two parts, so each artist can have his say – as brief as they are. This is part 2.

Susan Cummins: Although you were born in Yugoslavia, you have spent most of your life in Austria. Someone once told me that Austrian jewelers believe in fairytales. Do you think that is true?

Peter Skubic: No, only when they go to Hanau where the brothers Grimm were born . . . said Helen Drutt.

You have taught at a number of schools. Can you give me an example of an assignment that really challenged your students?

I always challenge my students. It is central to my teaching.

Were you trained as a goldsmith?

I was never trained as a goldsmith. I learned it by myself. I was trained as an engraver in FACHSCHULE IN STEYR.

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Chara Schreyer

Chara Schreyer has been on the ArtNews 200 Top Collectors list for many years. She owns five houses filled with contemporary art and is on every major museum’s list of collections to visit. She is also a supporter of AJF. I was particularly interested in interviewing her because she is one of the few high

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The Birthday Boys-Part 1 Thomas Gentille

Thomas Gentille This month Gallery Loupe is celebrating a birthday date. Both Thomas Gentille and Peter Skubic were born on August 11 and so the gallery has paired them for the show Birthday Boys. In the contemporary jewelry world these two artists are well known, well collected and are respected for their pioneering work. Eileen David and Patti Bleicher, the owners of Loupe, said that they are interested in showing the work of historically significant artists to help put all the other jewelry they show in context from time to time. I have separated the interviews into two parts, so each artist can have his say – as brief as they are.

Susan Cummins: Thomas, you have a reputation as a perfectionist. Do you see yourself as such?

Thomas Gentille: No, I don’t.

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Behind the Brooch

Portrait of Lorena Angulo Susan Cummins: Did you train as a jeweler? Lorena Angulo: My initial studies were not related to jewelry making at all. I studied mass communications and was looking to work as a journalist when I finished my studies, but destiny brought me to the United States and all my plans changed.

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Ana Albuquerque

Portrait of Ana Albuquerque Aaron Decker: Ana Albuquerque is a Portuguese jewelry artist with an expansive view. She has not limited herself to jewelry only but also includes sculpture in her practice. Since 2007 she has been the Vice President of The Association of Portuguese Jewelry (PIN), which is an organization committed to increasing the

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