Interviews

Sally Marsland: Everything depends on what we would rather do than change

Sally Marsland Jeweler’sWerk Galerie in Washington, DC is having a marvelous exhibition with Australian Sally Marsland this month. Sally’s show has the very long title Everything depends on what we would rather do than change. It is accompanied by a catalog that’s remarkable in its honesty and humor about making work and living life. I was delighted by it and by her answers to my questions.

Susan Cummins: Can you tell me how you came to make jewelry?

Sally Marsland: When I was 12 I obsessively drew house plans and elevations on 5-mm graph paper, carefully placing windows and doors and furniture etc. I decided the logical conclusion was to become an architect. I followed this through to university, and then fell in a huge heap part way through as it dawned on me that perhaps the obsessive drawing had been a symbol of something else. I was studying architecture at RMIT University in Melbourne, and after a year of depression, I started in the jewelry course there. I studied at RMIT for five years and worked with the late Melbourne sculptor Akio Makigawa (husband of jeweler Carlier Makigawa) while I set up my own practice. I studied for two years with Otto Künzli in Munich. Since 2000, I have been back in Melbourne where I work and live with my husband Stephen Bram, an abstract painter, and our two sons.

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Lynn Kelly: Central

Lynn Kelly Jewelry has been filled with plant forms from the beginning of its history, and these forms continue to intrigue jewelers from all parts of the world. Fingers Contemporary New Zealand Jewellery was founded in 1974 by a group of jewelers in Auckland. This month, the gallery is featuring a jeweler intrigued with plant forms. In fact, she has a horticultural degree. Lynn Kelly is absorbed more deeply than most by the use of plant forms as inspiration for her work.

Susan Cummins: Can you give us the story of how you became a jeweler? Please include your geographical locations, schools, etc.

Lynn Kelly: My parents emigrated from Northern Ireland. I found myself very interested in jewelry while travelling to Britain in the early 1980s to meet my wider family. I cannot pin down any particular person or event that started my desire to make. Once I returned to New Zealand and attempted to get metal training, I realized that I was too old for an apprenticeship, and at that time there was no other formal method of training in New Zealand.

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Julie Blyfield: Second Nature

Julie Blyfield Julie Blyfield is intrigued with plant forms as many jewelers have been over the millennium. She is looking at Australian plants, and this gives her an edge on unusual shapes and patterns. Second Nature, her show at Gallery Funaki, is a very concise look at how plant patterns translate into silver.

Susan Cummins: Can you give us the story of how you became a jeweler?

Julie Blyfield: My passion for jewelry and metal began in 1976. I was training to be a secondary school art teacher at Torrens College of Advanced Education at Underdale, west of Adelaide, in South Australia. (Now it is the University of South Australia, City West.) Carole-Ann Fooks was my jewelry lecturer. She introduced me to working with metal combined with mixed materials, such as bone, shell, and casting.

For many years, I taught jewelry making in secondary schools while making my own pieces at home in my spare time. I lived in regional South Australia when I first started teaching, so I had plenty of spare time to pursue my interest and passion.

Next, I returned to live in Adelaide and went back to night classes at Adelaide College of the Arts and Education to learn a few more skills, including enameling, chasing, and repoussé. In 1985, I enrolled in an associate diploma in jewelry making and joined Gray Street Workshop, a jewelry collective in Adelaide. I began as an access tenant, and then became a partner in the workshop that lasted 23 years.

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Hanna Hedman: Black Bile

Hanna Hedman Platina, Sofia Bjorkman’s gallery in Stockholm, Sweden, has a fascinating program featuring mostly young and thoughtful artists. This month, Hanna Hedman is showing a collection of her work in a mournful exhibition called Black Bile.

Susan Cummins: Can you tell me about your background and how you decided to become a jeweler?

Hanna Hedman: I have always been creative. As a young child, I loved making objects and drawings. My family always encouraged my creativity,  even though they were not artists themselves. I started to dabble in jewelry by breaking my mother’s necklaces and reassembling them into what I believed were better versions. I was also a professional skier at a very young age, and skiing was a major part of my life for a long time. But, I always felt the need to express myself more with my hands. I made my first piece of jewelry while attending the University of Colorado on a skiing scholarship from 1999 to 2001. My work wasn’t very artistic at the start. I was drawn to the many possibilities of shaping metal. This is something that still intrigues me very much. My art life eventually superseded my sports life, and I haven’t stopped making since then. I work with jewelry for many reasons, but one is to explore jewelry’s direct relationship with the body.

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Maya Kini: Silk

Maya Kini Jeweler April Higashi runs Shibumi Gallery in Berkeley, California. She shows mainly local jewelers and American jewelers who make well-designed, wearable work. Her gallery is located in a retail/manufacturing area, and her living quarters are right above the gallery. It is a wonderful space. April has discovered a lovely maker named Maya Kini, who is having her first full-scale solo show, Silk, at the gallery. Maya brings a complex background to her work.

Susan Cummins: Maya, can you tell me about your background? Your place of origin? Your schooling? How you became a jeweler?

Maya Kini: I was born and raised in the Boston area, the fourth of five children by parents from vastly different worlds. My mother is Italian American from New England, and my father emigrated from India in 1957 to get his PhD. He decided to stay in the US after meeting my mother. From a young age, I was given jewelry by visiting Indian relatives—bangles, anklets, and fine gold chains. Adornment begins at a young age in India and evolves into a complex language of beauty, wealth, and status.

I studied sculpture and literature at Reed College and eventually wrote my thesis on the translation of Catholicism and its earliest dispersion into New Spain. I received my degree in Spanish literature in 2000. In 1996, I was introduced to jewelry making in Mexico, and that seed developed into further study, apprenticeships with other jewelers, and eventually an MFA in metalsmithing from Cranbrook Academy of Art. I received my degree in 2007 under the guidance of Gary Griffin (2005–2006) and Iris Eichenberg (2006–2007). Currently, I operate my own small studio that focuses on commissions, multiples, and one-of-a-kind pieces.

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Maurer-Zilioli

Quattro Padovani e un Torinese, Annamaria Zanella, sculpture, and Giampaolo Babetto, drawings, June 2012, photo: Ellen Maurer-Zilioli Kellie Riggs: Please explain how your gallery functions as a cultural association. Ellen Maurer-Zilioli: We are living between north and south, between Germany and Italy. From the beginning, I was interested in some sort of cultural exchange. I

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Pascale Gallien

In May 2011, I spent a week in Paris, getting to know a bit more about the French contemporary jewelry scene. Through the kind assistance of French jeweler, writer, and AJF editor Benjamin Lignel, I had the opportunity to meet and interview French collectors and curators for the AJF website. Pascale Gallien is a lawyer

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Tributaries: Lola Brooks

Lola Brooks The National Ornamental Metal Museum is dedicated to the exhibition, collection, conservation, restoration, education, and research of metalwork. It is the only American institution that devotes itself entirely to this cause. They have started an exhibition series called Tributaries, which refers to the Mississippi River running next to the museum and indicates a meandering retrospective of an artist’s work. For the past few months, the museum has featured the work of Lola Brooks. Lola is a maker of traditionally inspired jewelry wrapped in untraditional garb. (Her recent interview on this blog is worth a second look.) As always, Lola is a pleasure to read and an all around smart contributor to the thoughtful pursuit of making jewelry.

Susan Cummins: Lola, congratulations on being chosen to design the AJF pin for 2013. This is only the third year we have commissioned a pin for our supporters, so you are among a very elite group that includes Arthur Hash and Ted Noten. Not too long ago, we had a pretty great interview for your show at Sienna Gallery, and you answered my questions then with humor, thoughtfulness, and intelligence. We covered a lot of territory at that time, so it may be challenging to come up with new questions. Let’s start with this—Where are living now, and what you are doing?

Lola Brooks: Thank you Susan. It was such an honor to be chosen to design the brooch for AJF this year, and it has been quite an adventure seeing it through. I cannot wait to pin one on my person!

Let see now … where am I living, and what am I doing? I have to agree that this is a great place to start. It has been a year of tumultuous upheaval and transformation for me in every possible way. After almost a quarter-century in New York City, the place I have long considered my heart and soul, I tore up my roots and moved to rural Georgia, about 18 miles (29 km) outside of Athens. Although the move happened fast and seemingly came out of left field, it was not completely capricious.

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Lucy Sarneel: Soulmates

Lucy Sarneel Dutch artist Lucy Sarneel is presenting new work in the exhibition Soulmates at Galerie Marzee in Nijmegen, The Netherlands, through February. Sarneel continues to reinvent her work while still keeping her signature use of zinc forms. This jewelry is fresh and colorful with a liveliness often missing from well-established artists’ work. She seems still open to experimentation and new ideas. Nice job.

Susan Cummins: Lucy, I understand that you studied at the Gerrit Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam, that you taught there for many years, and now you are about to become the head of the department. Congratulations. Many incredible jewelers have come from that school. Can you tell me what is the secret to their success?

Lucy Sarneel: I have taught in the jewelry department of the Gerrit Rietveld Academie for almost four years with some short periods of guest teaching previously, so it’s not that many years by my count. The secret to the school’s success could be attributed to the emphasis on the working process rather than working toward the result. Developing ideas as a constant dialogue between the idea and the material. The attempts and the failures. The doing and reflecting. Thinking in possibilities and not in solutions. This way of working opens personal potential and ways of looking, thinking, and making that the student learns to rely on, making him or her an independent artist.

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Galerie Rob Koudijs, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Galerie Rob Koudijs plays a critical role in the Dutch jewelry community. Rob Koudijs responds to some questions posed by Kamal Nassif.

Kamal Nassif: What do you hope to achieve with your gallery? How do you measure success?

Rob Koudijs: We think contemporary jewelry is a great medium. For more then 30 years, jewelry artists have managed to surprise us and tempt us to buy and wear their work. With Galerie Rob Koudijs, we have the opportunity to support the careers of artists who have excited us for many years and to introduce new, fresh, and promising talents. We enjoy contributing to the development of this field immensely!

We are very proud of finding a new and younger audience for this art form in spite of the commonly uttered fears that galleries have had their heyday and that collectors are “on the verge of extinction.” We feel this is not true. We are playing an important and an essential role as a promoter of contemporary jewelry. It is crucial that this kind of promotion continues. Hopefully, the future will see the start of many new galleries with young owners to continue the good work.

Kamal Nassif: In your latest publication of the GRK Magazine, Ward Schrijver’s essay discusses the pending “unequivocal acceptance” of jewelry into the greater scope of fine art.  Describe the steps you are taking to achieve this acceptance. What can the community of gallerists and artists do to help?

Rob Koudijs: Unfortunately, there is no general institution that decides these matters, so all you can do is be as visible as possible.

Galerie Rob Koudijs is in a high profile area of Amsterdam from the perspective of general shoppers and art gallery visitors. We attend important art fairs; always maintain a good, up-to-date website; write introductions and publish our magazines; very actively work with museums; and we act on any serious invitation to participate in projects or requests for information. (We receive these from all types of design- and art-related websites.)

Getting jewelry in public museums and mentioned in articles and reviews in newspapers, magazines, and websites is probably the most essential way of promotion. The whole jewelry community should put their efforts to this goal! (AJF is already very important in this respect.)

Kamal Nassif: What voice do you feel your publications have in the larger discussion of contemporary jewelry? Who is your ideal audience?

Rob Koudijs: In general, the publications contribute to the feeling that this is an art form and a gallery to be taken seriously. Unfortunately, we haven’t yet seen angry or overly excited people at the door or people who wanted to donate money for the good cause.

Of course, we intend the magazines for our customers and visitors to the gallery, but the best result would be if they would draw the interest of the famous “general public.” So, we hand them out to everyone who is tempted or who is a potential decision maker.

Kamal Nassif: All too often, discussions about contemporary jewelry stay within the community of people who have a prior awareness of the field. I am curious, what do you sell to somebody who has no notion of contemporary jewelry or even of fine art?

Rob Koudijs: We sell them what appeals to them. If you don’t fall in love with a piece—whether it’s small and cheap or spectacular and pricy—it has no use. If someone is new to the field and they are open to it, we show them the width and depth of the medium and the excitement it can bring. If they just want to drop in, buy, and leave quickly, it’s OK as well. We’re sure that one day they will return.

Kamal Nassif: And in that same vein of thought, how important do you think it is for a buyer to understand the conceptual content of a work?

Rob Koudijs: Everybody makes up their own story with a piece; everybody has their own personal associations. So, even if they don’t understand anything of the intellectual content of a work, they can still be utterly happy with it. (This is the case in all fields of the arts). The artist, the gallery, and the customer can all be content. But of course, the more the conceptual idea is understood, the better (naturally, that’s our aim)—and the more profound the satisfaction is for everybody.

Kamal Nassif: Do you feel there is a dialogue between your gallery and the other jewelry galleries in Amsterdam? If so, how would you describe your role?

Rob Koudijs: Well, now there is just Galerie Ra. We’ve known each other for more than 30 years, and we have a good professional relationship. We both have our own profile, and whenever it’s necessary, we have contact or work together. The same goes for Galerie Marzee.

Kamal Nassif: Amsterdam is something of a hub for contemporary jewelry. Do you feel any special obligation to represent the diverse body of work from your own backyard?

Rob Koudijs: We do the best we can for all the artists we represent in the gallery. If something exciting turns up in the Netherlands, we’re always keen to be “on the ball.”

Kamal Nassif: The interior of your gallery has an organic color scheme with wood accents. It is markedly different from the other Amsterdam galleries. What led you to make these design decisions?

Rob Koudijs: We never thought of it as organic. We just wanted to create an inviting, pleasant atmosphere in which the interior design would not distract our visitors. Everything is aimed at presenting jewelry to its best advantage.

This might come as a surprise to you, but Ward Schrijver, who designed our interior, was also responsible for the design of Galerie Sofie Lachaert in Gent, Belgium in 1990, the Gallery Ra interior in use from 1992 to 2010, and the redesign of Gallery Louise Smit in 2002. He designed many art fair booths for Marzee, Lachaert, and later for Smit as well as numerous jewelry exhibitions in museums. As always, every era has its style and every principal his or her own wishes.                                                                 

Kamal Nassif: And now something I have always wondered: why the green accent wall? Is there any particular significance of this color?

Rob Koudijs: The decision to use a color came from the rather haphazard articulation of the existing wall. Coloring one element gave it structure and rest. The color came from the ink color chosen by our graphic designer for our house style. She picked it as an approximation of the color of gold. There is nothing more to it.

Kamal Nassif: If you had to describe your collection in one sentence, what would you say?

Rob Koudijs: Innovative, sculptural works of art enhanced by the presence of craft and technique that can almost always be worn as jewelry.

Kamal Nassif: What have been your biggest challenges since opening in 2007?

Rob Koudijs: To improve on all the fields mentioned above.

Thank you.

 

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Stefano Catalani, Bellevue Arts Museum

Bellevue Arts Museum (BAM) has undertaken a series of important surveys of American contemporary jewelers over the past few years. These include Lisa Gralnick: The Gold Standard in 2010 and Knitted, Knotted, Twisted & Twined: The Jewelry of Mary Lee Hu in 2012. (You can read reviews of both exhibitions on the AJF website. The museum has also been a frequent American venue for national and international touring exhibitions of contemporary jewelry. I had the opportunity to speak with Stefano Catalani, Director of Curatorial Affairs/Artistic Director, in October 2011. We talked about his institution and the role of contemporary jewelry in the museum’s activities.

Damian Skinner: Your museum doesn’t have a contemporary jewelry collection, but you do a lot of work with jewelry.

Stefano Catalani: That is correct. We’re a non-collecting institution.

Has the museum ever had a collection?

Stefano Catalani: Yes. It was de-accessioned around 1998. Ultimately, most of the collection ended up at the Tacoma Art Museum in Tacoma, Washington. An agreement between the two institutions grants us free access to the collection. We can borrow any object from their collection, whether or not it came from BAM. That’s been useful in the past six years.

The decision to part with the collection was made at the time when the organization was moving from an older venue to the current building. The space was designed by Steven Holl to host a Kunsthalle-type museum with always-changing exhibitions. Shedding the skin of a permanent collection made us able to seize the moment of the contemporary art world. We would like to collect some day, although honestly, in these times of economic downturn, we are happy not to have the overhead of maintaining a collection. If we were to become a collecting institution, we would have to solve some logistical problems. In fact, the building was designed without appropriate space for storing and managing a collection.

What was the thinking behind transforming the museum from a collections-based organization to a non-collecting museum?

Stefano Catalani: I think at that time the cost associated with maintaining the collection was too burdensome for the institution, and the museum wanted to become financially leaner. Then, there was already this exciting idea of building the new venue and changing the focus of the museum’s mission. So, I believe this also informed the decision of the board.

 

Obviously, there has been another change. You are no longer focused on new media and contemporary art practices. Why did that happen?

Stefano Catalani: When the museum moved into this new facility there was a shift in the mission. The institution decided to focus more on cutting edge contemporary art. Ultimately, this change did not resonate with the community that had supported the museum from its inception in the mid 1970s. The original organization was born out of the arts and crafts fair, which turned 66 this year. There was a strong tradition of craft, craftsmanship, skill, and functional objects in the DNA of the institution.

In September 2003, the decision was made to close the museum, to pause, to take a break, and to have a moment of reflection. At that point, the board of trustees went back to the constituency and the community and asked what they wanted the museum to be. The response was to go back to the roots, to go back to where the museum came from in first place.

Michael W. Monroe was hired as Executive Director and Chief Curator in 2004. He came from the Renwick Gallery, part of the National Museum of American Art in Washington DC, with 30 years of experience in and deep knowledge of the fields of craft and design. Michael Monroe strived to make the Bellevue Arts Museum the northwest center for the exploration of art, craft, and design through exhibitions, educational programs, and partnerships with an emphasis on Northwest artists.

That mission overlaps with the Tacoma Art Museum in some ways.

Stefano Catalani: Partially. Tacoma Art Museum definitely has a focus on Northwest art, and because craft is an integral part of the past and present visual and cultural landscape of the Northwest, the two museums overlap. I think this is good thing, a richness that is offered through different perspectives. And we collaborate.

Did the collection that was de-accessioned have a specific focus?

Stefano Catalani: It included both craft and fine art. For example, it included works by Howard Kottler. Kottler is a seminal figure in bringing postmodernism into the ceramics world. He blazed a trail both as a potter and sculptor in the Northwest and in America. The collection also included paintings and sculptures by many regional artists—mixture of things.

Tell me how you came to be involved with the museum.

Stefano Catalani: I started working here in 2005, a month before the most recent incarnation of the museum opened its doors. Before, I worked as the director of a commercial gallery in Seattle for about a year and as a freelance curator.

Did you always have an interest in craft and design?

Stefano Catalani: No, actually. Around 2003 I became interested in artists whose work reclaims the visual and material language of craft in order to investigate their own cultural identity through a recovery of that tradition and its signs and symbols. I was fascinated by the idea of craft as a sign, the idea of craft as a language (which is a sequence of signs) defined by the information it carries with it. At that time, I was writing about Chinese-Australian or Chinese-Canadian artists. I believe Michael Monroe saw my interest as a complement to the more traditional forms and interpretations of craft he was planning to showcase at BAM. This is actually what I’ve been exploring in the last seven years at the museum.

How does contemporary jewelry fit within your museum’s intention to cover art, craft, and design?

Stefano Catalani: I think jewelry is an important form of artistic and cultural expression. It is information delivered through a language of lines in metals and other materials. Jewelry fits within the traditional field of craft—skill has to be harnessed to deliver a product that is functional and functionally crafted—but at the same time, by embodying and delivering meaning, it belongs to the field of art. Featuring jewelry has been quite successful for us. There’s been a strong response to jewelry shows. Jewelry is definitely popular.

Why do you think that is? What is the nature of its popularity?

Stefano Catalani: It’s about objects, things that you can touch. It doesn’t have the sacredness of a painting or sculpture, which demands distance and reverence. In my opinion, jewelry’s function as body ornament lowers our threshold of reverence. Its perception as an object to wear provides an entry point to its sculptural dimension and aesthetic and cultural values. So, there is the opening to another meaning, another sphere.

I come from Italy, a country where paintings and sculptures are in churches, and there is a reverence for them both as cult objects and objects of art. The institution of the museum is often like a church. Museums are temples where we worship art in all its forms. There is this sense of sacredness and reverence that comes into play when one is in front of an image. You almost feel you have to kneel.

I feel a museum that focuses on craft can take advantage of that particular lack of distance and sacred reverence. Unfortunately, we still have to put jewelry under a vitrine, but I think jewelry is popular because everyone can wear it or imagine they are wearing it, and everyone can make a statement about his or her identity or persona or whatever he or she wants to be.

What made you decide to do a series of solo retrospectives of American jewelers?

Stefano Catalani: From an organizational point of view, dealing with one artist’s work is easier. There is the idea of following the evolution of the artist’s work over a certain period of time or over several bodies of work. A group show requires more time to hone the idea, the theme that brings everything together.

We are a small museum. Although we pride ourselves with being nimble, we remain a small organization with limited personnel. There’s not always time to come up with and flesh out good ideas for group shows. Therefore, we supplement our efforts with traveling exhibits. We hosted Think Twice: New Latin American Jewelry, and a few years ago we took Women’s Tales, an exhibition of four leading Israeli jewelers.

In terms of solo exhibitions, we have featured the work of Bruce Metcalf, Lisa Gralnick, Ron Ho, and Mary Lee Hu. (The latter three were internally curated.) With Ron Ho and Mary Lee Hu, the idea was to celebrate important figures in the development of contemporary jewelry in the Northwest.

Tell me about the staff who are involved in curatorial activities.

Stefano Catalani: It’s a small staff. I am the director of curatorial affairs and artistic director, and I am responsible for implementing the museum’s mission and for leading the curatorial department. I share the leadership of the museum with the managing director. Nora Atkinson holds one curatorial position. (She curated the Lisa Gralnick exhibit.) We also have one registrar, a head preparator, and a temporary crew of five or six people to install the exhibitions. To complete the picture, we have an education curator and a part-time youth and family education coordinator.

 How many shows a year do you do?

Stefano Catalani: Eight to ten. There’s not a recipe. It depends on various factors. Usually, the first exhibitions to be scheduled on the calendar are the traveling ones. Then, we juggle the internal projects to fit around the traveling shows. We strive for a half-and-half ratio of in-house to traveling exhibitions.

Contemporary jewelry seems to have a rich history in the Pacific Northwest. Can you tell me about that?

Stefano Catalani: The metals program at the University of Washington was very strong for many decades. It started with Ruth Pennington who was a modernist jeweler. Then, Ramona Solberg came. She was a force of nature for sure and the mentor and teacher of Ron Ho. The tradition continued with Mary Lee Hu, John Marshall, Andy Cooperman, Laurie Hall, and Nancy Warden. Through the physical and cultural environ of the metals program, which was dissolved in 2006, there was a creative continuity at the University of Washington. Metalsmiths and jewelers handed down their visions and legacies to their students, fostering creativity in service of their vision.

The Pacific Northwest has a very subdued cultural attitude toward ostentation and public display. They say it is a legacy of the Scandinavian immigrants to this region. And yet, for a place where simplicity and lack of adornment seem to be held as moral virtues, there’s such an incredible wealth and tradition of jewelers and metalsmiths!

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