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09/29/2021

Week 1 of the 1st Lisbon Contemporary Jewellery Biennial

September 16–November 20, 2021

By Art Jewelry Forum

With its diverse programming, the 1st Lisbon Contemporary Jewellery Biennial has brought so much exciting energy to the art jewelry scene! We asked people who attended to send in snapshots taken during the first week of the event. Check out the photo essay we put together—it’s the next best thing to being there. (Thank you to all those who contributed photos—we couldn’t have done it without you!)

Click on the photos to learn about what they show.

You can also watch the recording of the related AJF Live here, to get a broader taste of the first week’s events.

Brian Weissman, the co-owner of Brooklyn Metal Works, sent in photos from all around the biennial. Here we see Cristina Filipe at the podium, giving her opening talk outside the Museu de Sao Roque. Filipe was one of the principal organizers of the 1st Lisbon Contemporary Jewellery Biennial, photo courtesy of Brian Weissman

Áurea Praga wearing Carlos Silva, photo courtesy of Brian Weissman

Doreen Timmers, the owner of Gallery Door, wearing a Typhaine le Monnier necklace and a Hartog and Henneman brooch at the Jewellery Room, photo courtesy of Brian Weissman

Catarina Silva wearing her own work, photos courtesy of Brian Weissman

Barbara Paris Gifford and Terhi Tolvanen at the Museu da Farmacia opening, photo courtesy of Brian Weissman

Celebrating the gallerist and jewelry artist Tereza Seabra’s birthday. Seabra is at the center, facing left, clapping her hands, and wearing a black jacket, photo courtesy of Brian Weissman

Theo Smeets (far left) at the Ar.Co Student show, photo courtesy of Brian Weissman

Barbara Paris Gifford (in the long dress) at the opening of the Estonian show OHULOSS, photo courtesy of Brian Weissman

Ana Pina shared photos of the Tincal lab display at the Jewellery Room. We start outside, with the exhibition banner for Jewellery Room, which takes place at Sociedade Nacional de Belas-Artes, photo courtesy of Ana Pina

(Left to right) Telma Oliveira, Ana Pina, and Olga Marques at the Tincal lab display, photo courtesy of Ana Pina

Tincal lab at the Jewellery Room - (in)SIDE EFFECT exhibition, photo courtesy of Ana Pina

Tincal lab at the Jewellery Room, photo courtesy of Ana Pina

Marta Costa Reis, one of the 1st Lisbon Contemporary Jewellery Biennial’s organizers, sent photos that give a taste of various happenings around the event. Here, the Scapular exhibition at Atelier Teresa Lacerda, with works by Iris Eichenberg, Eija Mustonen, Helen Lehtinen, Rebekah Frank, Jimena Rios, and Marta Costa Reis, photo courtesy of Marta Costa Reis

The Scapular exhibition, at Atelier Teresa Lacerda, with works by Iris Eichenberg, Eija Mustonen, Helen Lehtinen, Rebekah Frank, Jimena Rios, and Marta Costa Reis, photo courtesy of Marta Costa Reis

The outdoor movie night at the Portuguese Cinematheque showed “Crónica dos Bons Malandros,” by Portuguese director Fernando Lopes. It tells the (fictional) story of a heist on the Lalique collection at the Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon, photo courtesy of Marta Costa Reis

Marta Costa Reis, “Prayer,” at the “Cold Sweat” exhibition, São Roque Museum, Lisbon, photo courtesy of Marta Costa Reis

Ana Moreira shows us PIN's space at Jewellery Room, photo: Telma Oliveira

Pieces on display in PIN's space, at Jewellery Room, photo: Telma Oliveira

Detail of pieces on display in PIN's space, at Jewellery Room, with a necklace and earrings by Ana Moreira, photo: Telma Oliveira

A different view of the necklace and earrings by Ana Moreira on display in PIN's space, at Jewellery Room, photo: Telma Oliveira

Doreen Timmers, the owner of Galerie Door, sent photos of work she’s displaying at the biennial, and underlines the reasons for her choices. Idiots (Afke Golsteijn, Floris Bakker), Rooster Tail—Amazons, 2018, necklace, taxidermy rooster tail, clay, leather, silk, 340 x 380 x 600 mm, photo: Doreen Timmers, courtesy of the artist. Greek mythology tells of Amazons, proud female warriors on horseback, praised and feared for their fighting skills and skill with bows and arrows: Wonder Women. This piece, with its protective wings (shields) and flamboyant imposing plumage, refers to much more than warriors, war costumes, and battle dresses. It also stands for the protective mantles of Madonnas and traditional costume, and also refers to 17th-century still lives with dead game.

Coco Sung, Pheromon, 2018, amulet (brooch) on wall object, brass, copper, thread, rack, wire, beads, glass beads, 60 x 80 x 10 cm (wall piece), 270 x 110 x 60 mm (brooch), photo: Doreen Timmers, courtesy of the artist. All hormones and neurotransmitters—as referred to in the brooch’s title—connect to a physical and emotional feeling. The amulet is meant to protect and provide some additional positive energy to our lives. What more can be true to this time?

Philip Sajet, Nails, 2013, necklace, niello on sterling silver, 18-karat gold, 250 x 160 x 16 mm, courtesy of the artist photo: Beate Klockmann. Sajet’s designs aspire to royal standards and his craftsmanship is phenomenal, but always with a twist. The Nails necklace looks smooth and classic with its 10 drop-shaped black stones, which upon closer examination resemble the claws of a tiger and are sharp and fierce. This piece hints at amulets with bones, teeth, and game trophies. The wearer is a successful hunter or warrior. But wearing this piece also makes you humble, because you’re “captured” by the fierce, pointy claws of the predator.

Typhaine le Monnier, Visor, 2021, necklace, lacquered steel, acetate, textile, 500 x 25 x 190 mm, 150 mm in diameter, courtesy of the artist, photo: Terese Santos. This was the iconic photo used for promoting the biennial—a necklace or collar to protect and to hide.

Teresa Milheiro gazes into her window project, Spy On, photo courtesy of Teresa Milheiro

Teresa Milheiro, Spy On. This is one of the pieces in the Window Project by Teresa Milheiro, taking place concurrently with the Ruudt Peters solo exhibition As Above, So Below, at Galeria Reverso, photo courtesy of Teresa Milheiro

Teresa Milheiro, Spy On II, the other piece in the Window Project by Teresa Milheiro, at Galeria Reverso, photo courtesy of Teresa Milheiro

Teresa Milheiro, One Way System I. This was shown in Jewellery Room with Gallery Alice Floriano, SNBA (1st Lisbon Jewellery Biennal), photo courtesy of Teresa Milheiro

Thank you to Nicole Uurbanus for these photos of Brazil’s Grupo Broca. Members of Grupo Broca at the Open Wound exhibition, at Galeria Sá da Costa, Lisbon, photo: Eduardo Sousa Ribeiro

Grupo Broca, Open Wound exhibition, at Galeria Sá da Costa, Lisbon, photo: Eduardo Sousa Ribeiro

Marina Sheetikoff, Reflected Flame, shown in Grupo Broca’s Open Wound exhibition, at Galeria Sá da Costa, Lisbon, photo: Eduardo Sousa Ribeiro

Miriam Andraus Pappalardo, Heritage of Faith, shown in Grupo Broca’s Open Wound exhibition, at Galeria Sá da Costa, Lisbon, photo: Eduardo Sousa Ribeiro

Jürgen Eickhoff, the owner of Galerie Spektrum, shared images of some of the work he’s exhibiting and selling in Lisbon. Karin Roy Andersson, Vendla's Necklace, 2021 naturally tanned reindeer hide, thread, 290 x 220 x 15 mm, photo courtesy of Jürgen Eickhoff

Marianne Schliwinski, Chain, 2017/2018, papier-maché, lacquer, black pearls, 350 cm long, photo courtesy of Jürgen Eickhoff

Ramon Puig Cuyàs, To José Lluis Borges, Jugandos con la Partícolas #1872, 2020, brooch, nickel-silver, enamel on steel, plastic, 70 x 80 x 20 mm, photo courtesy of Jürgen Eickhoff

Andrea Wagner, Lodge on the Edge of Land between the Lakes, 2017, brooch, silver, porcelain, glass resin composite, paper, fluorescent pigment, stainless steel, 150 x 125 x 35 mm, photo courtesy of Jürgen Eickhoff

Lin Cheung selected photos from all around the biennial. Patricia Domingues’s installation Modern Animism, in the Church of São Roque, photo courtesy of Lin Cheung

(Foreground) new work in glass and pearls by Caroline Broadhead and (on the wall) a photographic artwork by Daniel Blaufuks, at the Museum of São Roque, photo courtesy of Lin Cheung

Camilla Laorni’s installation, made during Caroline Broadhead’s Protection workshop, at Ar.Co, photo courtesy of Lin Cheung

Pre-cinema dinner with (left to right) Paula Crespo, the owner of Galeria Reverso; Ruudt Peters; Brian Weissman, the co-owner of Brooklyn Metal Works; and Nanna Melland, photo courtesy of Lin Cheung

Zélia Nobre Carré exhibited work at the biennial. Zélia Nobre Carré, Brooch, 2020, silver, blue cobalt painting, photo: Ricardo Bravo

Zélia Nobre Carré, Brooch, 2020, silver, blue cobalt painting, photo: Ricardo Bravo

Zélia Nobre Carré, Brooch, 2021, silver, photo: Ricardo Bravo

Zélia Nobre Carré, Brooch, 2021, gilded silver, photo: Ricardo Bravo

Livia Mourão submitted photos related to her school in Brazil. Rosa Ribeiro, That Word Stuck in Our Throat; Dirk Vrancken, Chip External Front Cortex; Dirk Vrancken, Core of Fear; Maria Guapindaia, The Request; Maria Guapindaia, The Flowers Death, from the Rio 40º Beauty and Fear exhibition, shown at the Antonio Arroio School, photo courtesy of Atelier Mourão school. ⁠This project was developed especially for the 1st Lisbon Contemporary Jewellery Biennale as the result of a partnership between Atelier Mourão school, jewelers and mentors Nicole Uurbanus and Renata Porto, and 15 students.

Cristiana Arenas, Chasuble and Parafulmine, from the Rio 40º Beauty and Fear exhibition, shown at the Antonio Arroio School, photo courtesy of Atelier Mourão school. Rio de Janeiro—one of the most beautiful cities on the globe, a world-famous postcard, heat, beaches, slopes, effervescence, and fear. In a deep dive into fear, which is often covered by many layers, we work on the body that makes up the individual in a society; a body that can feel cold in a scorching heat of 40°C. The exhibition title thus played on the biennial’s theme of cold sweat. Rio was referenced for its important role in the history between Brazil and Portugal.

Livia Mourão, from Atelier Mourão school, presenting during the school meeting at Antonio Arroio School, photo courtesy of Atelier Mourão school

Nicole Uurbanus and Renata Porto, from Atelier Mourão school, presenting during the school meeting at Antonio Arroio School, photo courtesy of Atelier Mourão school

These photos came to us from Barbara Paris Gifford. Lysine Hilario, Necklace, 2021, paper (?) from the Exhibition Masterclasses “Fear and Protection,” curated by Caroline Broadhead and Christoph Zellweger, photo courtesy Barbara Paris Gifford

Bernhard Schobinger, Rosary Ring, 2008, enameled stainless steel, diamonds, show in the “Cold Sweat” exhibition, San Roque Museum, photo courtesy Barbara Paris Gifford

Ted Noten, Wanna Swap Your Ring?, 2010–2021, 523 rings, SLS 3D-printed, shown at "Cold Sweat” exhibition, San Roque Museum, photo courtesy Barbara Paris Gifford

Alcides Fortes and Valeria Vallarta, Necklace, 2003, glass and burnt wood from a house in Iraq destroyed in the Iraq war, shown at "Cold Sweat” exhibition, San Roque Museum, photo courtesy Barbara Paris Gifford

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