January 2024, Part 1
Art Jewelry Forum is pleased to share the news that members of our community find noteworthy. Is something missing? The success of this compilation of compelling events, news, and items of interest to the jewelry community depends on YOUR participation. If you’re a member of AJF at the Silver level or above, you can add news and ideas to this bi-monthly report by going here. If you aren’t a member, but would like to become one, join AJF here.
Listings gathered with assistance from Carrie Yodanis.
ALL PAST AJF LIVE EVENTS ARE AVAILABLE TO WATCH ONLINE
Our free events take you around the globe, to galleries, artists’ studios, and universities. We record and post them to our website. Highlights include our conversations with:
Go here to see all the different viewing choices you have.
WRITE A REVIEW, INTERVIEW, OR OTHER ARTICLE FOR AJF
We provide a platform for the wearers, the makers, and the thinkers invested in art jewelry to share the stories and lessons that jewelry brings to our world. Pitch us your story idea by January 22, 2024. Submit your proposal here.
FEEL LIKE SEEING A JEWELRY SHOW?
Find these listings and many, many more on our dedicated exhibition page:
- A Long Day: Marília Maria Mira, at Galeria Tereza Seabra through January 6
- Playtime: Typhaine Le Monnier and Burnout: Robean Visschers, at Galerie Door through January 6
- Heather Guidero: Conversation Pieces, at Pistachios Contemporary Art Jewelry through January 14
- Storytellers, at Ombré Gallery through January 20
- Portable Works of Art: Earrings, Part II, at Mobilia Gallery through January 20
- Decorative Digitalism, at Temple Contemporary, Tyler School of Art and Architecture through February 3
- Of the Garden’s Earth and Air: Insects in Jewelry and Art, at Yun Gee Park Gallery & Atelier through February 17
FROM OUR MEMBERS
CLOSING SOON: RING REDUX, AT NEW ORLEANS ART MUSEUM
This exhibition of 100 innovative rings tells the story of the emergence of art jewelry in the postwar era via objects that were neither traditionally made luxury goods nor low-cost, mass-produced costume jewelry. They come from the collection of Susan Grant Lewin, one of the most influential collectors of 20th- and 21st-century art jewelry. Closes February 4, 2024. Info.
GALERIE VICEVERSA’S ILONA SCHWIPPEL GUEST STARS ON A PODCAST
Schwippel talked to the Jewelry Journey. Find out why she thinks jewelry artists have more freedom than other types of artists, how art jewelry galleries create a channel of communication from artist to wearer to observer, and why the most important thing a gallerist can do is choose pieces that resonate with them. Listen here.
APPLY FOR THE 32ND INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY COMPETITION
The 32nd International Jewellery Competition EMPATHY is organized by the Gallery of Art in Legnica (Poland). The deadline for sending works is January 20, 2024. A post-competition exhibition will be presented in the frame of the Legnica Jewellery Festival SILVER in the Gallery of Art in Legnica from April to June 2024. The culmination of the Legnica Jewellery Festival SILVER and the announcement of the winners takes place on May 10–11, 2024. Info.
THE BJC’S ORNAMENTA TAKES PLACE MARCH 9, 2024
This year, the theme of the Baltimore Jewelry Center’s annual benefit party is Sapphire. The fundraiser allows the BJC to raise funds while exposing a larger community to the work it does.
VIRTUAL LECTURE: IRIS EICHENBERG AND DAVIRA TARAGIN: JANUARY 11, 2024
During this conversation, the artist and the curator will explore the themes, materials, and accomplishments of Eichenberg’s mid-career survey, currently on view at the Lowe Art Museum. Free, 12–1 p.m. EST. Info.
NICO ESTRADA BOOK AMONG JEWELRY PUBLICATIONS RELEASING IN 2024
Coming in the next five months:
- New Earrings: 400+ Designs in Contemporary Jewellery, by Nicolás Estrada
- Objects of Affection: Jewelry by Robert Ebendorf from the Porter • Price Collection, by Rebecca Elliott, with contributions by Toni Greenbaum. Accompanies the forthcoming exhibition at the Mint Museum
- Antique French Jewelry: 1800-1950, by Geoffray Riondet
SÉBASTIEN CARRÉ TO TEACH WORKSHOP JUNE 24–28, 2024
This workshop will explore different textile techniques with the aim of associating and mixing them: bead work with the needle in embroidery or in peyote stitch (weaving), crochet techniques, and macramé. It’s aimed at both beginners or experienced artists with a passion for wire and beads. Takes place in Varen (Tarn-et-Garonne), France. Cost: €650, includes workshop, meals, materials, and tools. Register by January 21, 2024, for the early bird rate of €600. Lodging—in teepees or a barn dormitory—can be arranged on site for fees of €15–20 per night. Info: leseldelamain@gmail.com
OTHER NEWS
SULO BEE TO PARTICIPATE IN GROUP EXHIBITION OPENING SOON
The show starts January 7, 2024, at Galerie Marzee. Additional details weren’t available at the time of press.
49 ARTISTS FROM 26 COUNTRIES ANNOUNCED FOR KORU8 EXHIBITION
Congrats to Manami Aoki, Miriam Arentz, Ingrid Berg, Sara Blosseville, Monika Brugger, Willemien Bruwer, Fernando Crêspo, Ildikó Dánfalvi, Margus Elizarov, Åsa Elmstam, Gésine Hackenberg, Aya Jadon, Courtney Jamieson, Therese Johansson, Steven KP, Shun Wan Ko, Heeseung Koh, Moses Krämer, Jamie Kroeger, Marie Lafaille, Vivi Lamarre, Kristiina Laurits, Helena Lehtinen, Yuxi Lu, Helena Lundahl, Märta Mattsson, Felicia Mülbaier/Valérie Wagner/Luisa Werner, Maria Nuutinen, Rachel Ouizemann, Ismini Pachi, Kimia Parang, Inni Pärnänen, Janne Peltokangas, Arianna Pittini, Sarah Powell, Kendall Reiss, Anna Rikkinen, Anne Saastamoinen, Meghan Schmiedel, Olga Stalev, Yen-Yu Tseng, Natalie Vanderzand, María Ignacia Walker, Mona Wallström, Lingjie Wang, Josephine Winther, and Ching-Hui Yang. See the ehhibition at the Finnish Forest Museum Lusto in Punkaharju in summer/autumn 2024 and at the Oulu Museum of Art in winter 2025.
BIJOUX! 2024 ANNOUNCED
The Boca Raton Museum of Art’s annual contemporary jewelry exhibition and sale will take place March 21–23, 2024. There’s also an opportunity to have cocktails with, or take a workshop from, Kiff Slemmons. For more info, go here, then scroll to page 18.
EXEMPLA 2024 WILL SHOWCASE NATURAL STONE DURING MUNICH’S JEWELRY WEEK
Exempla is the largest special show at the fair. Graduates from the Department of Design, Jewellery and Gemstones at Idar-Oberstein’s Trier University of Applied Sciences will demonstrate various gemstone processing techniques. And Georg Dobler and Bettina Speckner will set up their workbenches and show how they process stones in their art jewelry. More.
APPLY FOR A SCHOLARSHIP FROM THE WASHINGTON GUILD OF GOLDSMITHS
WGG Metalwork Merit Scholarship fosters the study of metalsmithing, jewelry design, and related arts. This scholarship is open to all registered metal-smithing students who have taken jewelry or metal-smithing courses, or crafts courses with an emphasis on metals process, during the academic year Fall 2023–Spring 2024. Three awards are available: one emerging artist award and two jurors’ choice awards. Deadline: March 3, 2024. Info.
PAGES
THE SPIRIT OF CHAUMET, BY GABRIELLE DE MONTMORIN
Offers an unparalleled journey into the world of the exclusive Parisian high-jewelry house, showcasing its key creations, stylistic principles, and multifaceted history going back more than 240 years. It’s a chance to discover the Maison behind-the-scenes and to admire seldom-seen one-of-a-kind creations. Available January 9, 2024. More.
A DICTIONARY OF WONDERS: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, BY FABIENNE REYBAUD
Arranged as an alphabetical guide, this A-Z lexicon revisits the themes and codes of Van Cleef & Arpels, from historical references to emblematic jewels, from precision watchmaking and jewelry-making techniques demonstrating unique savoir faire to artistic collaborations. Available February 6, 2024. More.
BÄUMER: 30 YEARS OF ART, BY PHILIPPE GARCIA AND PAUL-HENRY BIZON
Over three decades, the renowned jeweler has created emblematic works such as Princess Charlene’s tiara, the Mikado jewel, the Astrolabe jewel, a meteorite ring, an academician’s sword, and a perfume bottle for Guerlain. In the photos, the jewelry is presented juxtaposed over classical statuary.
👈Here’s an odd choice. More.
INTERESTING LINKS
PLAQUE PENDANTS: A CANVAS TO SHOW THE WORLD WHAT YOU’RE ABOUT
What would Benedictine monks from the seventh century and the Notorious B.I.G. have in common? Their plaque pendants, for one. Plaque pendants are turning up in fine and high jewelry. The rectangular pieces may be smaller than those often worn by hip-hop stars, but they still allow wearers to express themselves without saying a word. More.
PIN THE BROOCH ON THE … STOMACHER?
The stomacher was a Renaissance-era triangular panel that filled in the front opening of a woman’s bodice. They fell out of fashion in the 18th century but came back in the late 19th/early 20th century. ‘Twas the perfect extra place to wear jewelry to convey extreme wealth, status, and power. In the Gilded Age, that trifecta was best achieved via jewels not only designed with major stones but also from royal provenance. The rising stars of New York society wanted noble associations. Marriage was one way to get them; jewels another. This article about Gilded Age jewelry makes watching the show even more interesting! More.
BRUNE BOYER MAKES OBJECTS DESIGNED TO BE CUPPED IN THE HAND
Her pieces explore the relationship between body and jewel. They’re made of different materials chosen for the sensation they produce. The density of fine gold results in jewelry that has a substantial weight in the hand, for example. More, from Garland.
AI WEI WEI HAS DESIGNED ZODIAC PENDANTS
They’re based on the Chinese zodiac, cast in pure gold, and produced in limited editions of 99 by Taschen, the book publishing company. Very savvy of Taschen. Tip: 2024 is the year of the dragon. More.
AVOID THE DOGHOUSE BY GIVING THIS JEWELRY AS A GIFT
In a nod to Victorian tradition, Francesca Villa hires crystal carvers in Germany to craft and paint portraits of pets—they work from clients’ photos—which are then paired with gold and gemstones. More.
CHARMS REFLECT PERSONALITY
“Charms are a fascinating jewelry item because they reflect a person’s character and personality, which is why they appeal to people of any gender,” says jewelry designer George Inaki Root. More.
RUSSIAN DIAMONDS BANNED
Beginning today, the EU and all G7 nations bans the import of non-industrial, natural diamonds “mined, processed, or produced” in Russia. The new sanctions seek to impede Russia’s ability to fund its war in Ukraine. On March 1, 2024, the ban extends to natural Russian diamonds cut and polished in other countries. On September 1, the ban expands to lab-grown diamonds made in Russia, and other related items. More details.
KING OF DIAMONDS REVEALS HARRY WINSTON’S MANY FACETS
The legendary jeweler’s son, Ronald Winston, has written the definitive bio. More.
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