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February 2025, Part 1

Art Jewelry Forum is pleased to share the news that members of our community find noteworthy. Is something missing? The success of this compilation of compelling events, news, and items of interest to the jewelry community depends on YOUR participation. If you’re a member of AJF at the Silver level or above, you can add news and ideas to this bi-monthly report by going here. If you aren’t a member, but would like to become one, join AJF here.

SAVE THE DATES FOR AJF TRIPS IN 2025!
AJF’s highly curated trips provide an opportunity to travel with like-minded enthusiasts and give you access to venues and activities you couldn’t do on your own. We have two trips planned. Registration for the first trip—Santa Fe, New Mexico, May 12–15, 2025—opens February 7, 2025, for Gold members. Registration opens February 14, 2025, for Silver members. The other trips will be in Mexico City, Mexico, September 7–10, 2025, with an optional Oaxaca add-on September 12–14. Become a member at the Gold level for priority invitation to AJF’s trips. Additional info here.


WE’RE LOOKING FOR A MEMBERSHIP + PROGRAMS COORDINATOR
This role will operate with great attention to detail to ensure smooth daily operations that support AJF’s membership, programs, and administration. The Membership + Programs Coordinator will support the ED and the board to administer AJF’s membership program and realize a robust calendar of mission-driven programs that engage the field and beyond. This role will be responsible for daily operations critical to the operations of AJF and will support long-term projects and planning. Full info here.


AJF’S EVENTS IN MUNICH
We’ve organized a robust program! We’ll share a booth with Arnoldsche, in which we’ll host a daily speaker series. The 15+ presenters will explore a range of compelling themes, including sustainability, artistic innovation, cultural representation, and the expanding roles of collectors and makers. | We have two events at Galerie Handwerk: 2023 Susan Beech Mid-Career Grant winner Khanya Mthethwa will give a special presentation. And we’ll present the new book Feast, about American collector Susan Beech, with a panel that includes Beech, Toni Greenbaum, Barbara Gifford, and Susan Cummins. | We’ll announce the winner of the 2025 AJF Solo Exhibition Award. Who will get $20,000 to organize their show? | And don’t miss our AJF member dinner. Full details here.


SUBMIT TO AJF’S GUIDE TO MUNICH EVENTS & EXHIBITIONS
Will you be hosting a show during Munich’s jewelry week? An event such as a musical performance or a sale of no-longer-wanted studio “junk”? Tell us about it! We’re putting together a schedule of everything that’s happening. It’s free to participate, and the schedule will be free for all to access. Deadline: February 16, 2025. Submit here.


FEEL LIKE SEEING A JEWELRY SHOW?
Find listings from around the world on our dedicated exhibition page.


EVENTS
We have a dedicated page for them. Go here to see the list.

FROM OUR MEMBERS

DEMAND GROWS FOR JEWELRY MADE OF WOOD
With the price of precious metals skyrocketing and ethical concerns about mining intensifying, wood has become a popular medium across the industry, from Tiffany, to indie brands. Sounds like the public is just discovering what art jewelers have known for a long time. More.


DONALD FRIEDLICH WILL PARTICIPATE IN SHINING DESPAIR
This exhibition, at Munich 2025, is organized by France’s Alliages collective. Other examples of Friedlich’s work will also appear in the Schmuck special show and in Galerie Noel Guyomarc’h’s booth at the Messe.


ALTERED STATES: PLASTIC TRANSFORMED, AT PISTACHIOS
Jennifer Merchant, emiko oye, and Nikki Couppee transform plastic into wearable art. Plastic is undoubtedly a part of our everyday lives, and is an often overlooked material for jewelry. But this transformation from ordinary to spectacular calls into question how we place value on objects. Through April 6, 2025. More.


UTE DECKER TO PRESENT WORK AT IHM MUNICH
Find specifically created art jewelry pieces alongside her signature sculptural jewelry works during Schmuck/Munich Jewellery Week at FRAME in Objects Beautiful gallery, Stand B1.780. Decker will be in the space on Saturday, March 15—come meet her! Check for the exact time closer to the date at @ute_decker_studio or on Decker’s website.


CARRYING TREASURES: ESTHER BRINKMANN—EXHIBITION
A curated selection of early and recent works invites you to explore the artistry of wearable art that Brinkmann has mastered. At Lechbinska Forum, Zurich, Switzerland. Opens February 6, with the artist present; runs through March 22, 2025. More.


APPLY FOR NYCJW’S ONE FOR THE FUTURE AWARD
This annual award celebrates emerging talent—whether you’re a recent graduate, a young entrepreneur, or a new professional in design, marketing, education, journalism, or beyond. Deadline: February 28, 2025. More.

OTHER NEWS

REFLECTING ON SUPPORT FOR BLACK JEWELERS SINCE 2020
The aftermath of the George Floyd protests became a bittersweet opportunity: A host of initiatives—like the the Black in Jewelry Coalition—curations, and programs from brands like the Natural Diamond Council, Sotheby’s and De Beers were created to spotlight the work of Black designers. Many Black jewelers say that the period allowed them to advance in ways they never expected. More.


THE FASCINATION OF JEWELRY: 7,000 YEARS OF JEWELRY ART AT THE MAKK
The Cologne Museum of Applied Arts (MAKK) showcases its jewelry collection for the first time in a permanent exhibition that presents diverse approaches to the art of jewelry-making. Some 370 selected pieces represent 7,000 years of jewelry art, ranging from ancient gems to contemporary jewelry. More.


MAY THE FOREST BE WITH YOU
The KORU8 exhibition opened at the Oulu Art Museum, in Finland, on January 24 and remains on view through April 13, 2025. The forest-themed jewelry art features pieces made of various materials, including wood, metal, soil, hay, resin, charcoal, and hair. The common denominator behind it all: a deep longing for nature. More.


EXHIBITION MARKS 25 YEARS OF SHENKAR ACADEMY
The celebrations kicked off with the launch of the Dor (Generation) exhibition, at Periscope Gallery through February 22, 2025, and will continue throughout the year with content-driven events. These will offer diverse perspectives on the past, present, and future of Israel’s leading department for jewelry design and goldsmithing studies. More.


JAMEEL MOHAMMED WINS INAUGURAL TIFFANY & CO X CFDA JEWELRY DESIGNER AWARD
The award recognizes outstanding American jewelry designers committed to driving inclusivity within the industry. The program tasked 10 participants with designing a presentation paying homage to Tiffany & Co.’s heritage. Mohammed receives US$50,000 and a one-year paid fellowship within Tiffany & Co.’s design department. More.


VALENTINO RUNWAY FEATURES FACE JEWELRY
Models in the spring 2025 show wore faux industrial-style face jewelry, influenced by a revival in the goth aesthetic. See all the looks here.


ON THE BLOCK: JEWELRY OWNED BY KARL LAGERFELD
A white enameled porcelain neckpiece, produced by Uncommon Matters, is up for auction. Hm. Do you suppose Lagerfeld wore it over his real collar? More.

 


ALSO ON AUCTION: IRIS APFEL’S COLLECTION
If you love art jewelry, the geriatric starlet’s—her term, not ours! She was an admirably fearless fashionista!—bangles are probably of no interest. But if they are, go here. There’s certainly plenty to go around!


LVMH’S PARIS 2024 OLYMPIC MEDALS ARE RUSTING
Uh-oh, medals developed by LVMH’s jewelry subsidiary, Chaumet, are defective. Photos on social media show rusted medallions looking like bikes that wintered outdoors. More.


CASTRO RETROSPECTIVE HELD AT CARPENTERS WORKSHOP GALLERY
The late Castro’s son, Sir King Castro, secured a show at the gallery’s London branch October 8, 2024–January 11, 2025. It was only the second time that it mounted a retrospective dedicated to a jewelry designer. More. Note: The gallery reps AJF member Ute Decker.

 

EVENTS

TUCSON GEM SHOW: FEBRUARY 13–16, 2025
The Tucson Gem and Mineral Show, which calls itself the largest and oldest in the world, celebrates 70 years in 2025. It was the first gem and mineral show to bring the hobby enthusiast, the public, and curators/professionals together for discovery and discussion. More. Peripheral events take place in late January and February; see schedule here. Bring several pair of walking shoes—the overall event is so gigantic that you may wear them out!

 

 

 

OPPORTUNITIES

OPEN CALL: FOUR ARTIST RESIDENCIES AT DIVA MUSEUM
The museum provides its expertise, collection, and studio infrastructure for research and work. The residency will run September 1–November 30, 2025. It culminates in an exhibition at the museum, and the opportunity to present your work to a broad audience during a DIVA talk. Deadline: March 30, 2025. Info.


OPEN CALL: 2025 CHEONGJU INTERNATIONAL CRAFT COMPETITION
Cheongju City and the Cheongju Craft Biennale Organizing Committee are hosting the competition to discover the finest contemporary craft artworks that reflect the current trends and future of world crafts. Deadline: May 2, 2025. Info.


OPEN CALL: FULLY PAID PHD STUDENTSHIPS
For UK and international candidates, at the School of Design and Creative Arts, Loughborough University. If your application relates to investigating creative approaches to well-being in visual art—for example wearables or jewelry as aids for well-being or to celebrate diversity and amplify marginalized voices—contact Roberta Bernabei. Deadline: March 6, 2025. More.

 

 

 

PAGES

TASAKI: BALANCE
Tasaki grew out of a humble family of pearl farmers and is now synonymous with Japanese luxury. Tasaki is now known for its fresh approach to high jewelry in pearls and gemstones. Released in April 2024, but we somehow missed it. More.


We welcome your comments on our publishing, and we will publish letters that engage with our articles in a thoughtful and polite manner. Please submit letters to the editor electronically; do so here

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