December 2023, Part 1
Art Jewelry Forum is pleased to share the news that members of our community find noteworthy. Is something missing? The success of this compilation of compelling events, news, and items of interest to the jewelry community depends on YOUR participation. If you’re a member of AJF at the Silver level or above, you can add news and ideas to this bi-monthly report by going here. If you aren’t a member, but would like to become one, join AJF here.
Listings gathered with assistance from Carrie Yodanis.
AJF LIVE WITH KHANYA MTHETHWA, RESCHEDULED FOR DECEMBER 14, 12 P.M.
EVENTS
We have a dedicated page for them. Go here to see the list.
FEEL LIKE SEEING A JEWELRY SHOW?
Find these listings and many, many more from around the globe on our dedicated exhibition page:
- Alexander Blank, at Four through December 9
- Jewelry by Takayoshi Terajima at Galerie Rosemarie Jäger through December 10
- A Handful of Flowers: Jess Dare, at Gallery Funaki through December 23
- 5 X 5: Viceversa 25 Years, at Galerie Viceversa through December 23
- Refresh, at Zu design through December 24
- Melanie Georgacopoulos, at Ornamentum through December 24
- 25 Years Reverso Group Exhibition, at Galeria Reverso
- Soul to Soul: Gigi Mariani and Jeemin Jamie Chung, at Thereza Pedrosa Gallery through December 26
- Heather Guidero Opalescence, at Jewelers’Werk Galerie, through December 30
- Helen Britton .\ Crazed Slobbering Monster, at Sienna Patti through December 31
- A Long Day: Marília Maria Mira, at Galeria Tereza Seabra through January 6
- Heather Guidero: Conversation Pieces, at Pistachios through January 14
- Storytellers, at Ombré Gallery through January 20
FROM OUR MEMBERS
PODCASTERS SPECIALIZING IN JEWELRY ARE FLOURISHING
So says Melanie Abrams. Why? Although the sparkle of a gem or the glitter of gold isn’t visible in an audio-only medium, listeners tend to be richer, better educated, and—crucially—younger, between 18 and 34 years old. And they’re not scrolling, scrolling, scrolling. Abrams profiled four of them here, including the Jewelry Journey, an AJF member, But she missed Sarah Rachel Brown, host of the Perceived Value podcast … and who else?
SPEAKING OF PODCASTS, HEAR ESTHER BRINKMANN ON THE JEWELRY JOURNEY
Find out how wearing jewelry influences the way we move through the world, and hear about the maker’s experiences in China and India, which still impact her work. Listen here.
STUDIO AND ART JEWELRY AUCTION AT QUITTENBAUM: DECEMBER 7, 2023
Bettina Speckner, Ted Noten, Torun, Georges Braque, Ettore Sotsass, Friedrich Becker, Tone Vigeland, Hermann Jünger, Manfred Bischoff, Gerd Rothmann, Paul Derrez, and more, more, more. See the catalog here. More info here.
AUTHOR JEWELRY AUCTION IN DECEMBER
Seventy pieces from a Munich collection, including work by Carina Shoshtary, Florá Vági, Peter Bauhuis, Giampaolo Babetto, Jiro Kamata, Tanel Veenre, Lisa Walker, Daniel Kruger, Karl Fritsch, Peter Hoogeboom, Annamaria Zanella, and still others. See all the lots.
2ND LISBON CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY BIENNIAL ANNOUNCED
In April, the 25th April Revolution will celebrate 50 years. This regime change in Portugal had as its motto democracy, freedom, and equality. These values are now threatened worldwide. Since anything can be a theme for a piece of jewelry understood as an artistic manifestation, and because jewelry has always had a close connection with power, freedom and the possibility of critical political expression will be explored during the biennial, which will have the theme “Political jewelry. Power Jewelry.” Event dates: April to September 2024. More.
OTHER NEWS
NEW YORK TIMES SPOTLIGHTS ALCHIMIA
The jewelry school in in Florence, Italy, is a great way to combine travel to Italy and education in jewelry making. Read about it here.
FORGET DIAMONDS—CARDAMOM IS FOREVER
Through the process of electroforming, Inoka Samarasekara has been able to embody the smell of Sri Lanka into her jewelry inspired by the Sri Lankan diaspora. More.
EYE CANDY HELPS DESIGN EYE CANDY
Timothée Chalamet—wait, did I just objectify Chalamet by calling him eye candy in the heading above?! yep—worked with Cartier to design a one-of-a-kind, bonbon-inspired necklace to wear to the world premiere of his film, Wonka. Vogue got an exclusive interview with the actor, reviewing the creative process for the piece, which is sumptuous, yes, but utterly conventional. More.
THIS BROOCH IS A PERSONAL ASSISTANT POWERED BY AI
You knew this was coming … In a diaphanous blend of the real and the digital, it’s a device that you wear and communicate with through speech and gesture. No screen, no buttons, no apps, no downloads … but your future overlords will know all. More.
MARY TYLER MOORE’S JEWELRY ALSO ON AUCTION
Necklaces, rings, and timepieces owned by the American TV star will be sold at Sotheby’s “Magnificent Jewels” on December 5, 2023, with proceeds benefiting the Mary Tyler Moore Vision Initiative. More.
Mary Tyler Moore
MUM’S THE WORD … OR IS IT?
When Phoebe Philo’s first solo collection was unveiled, a sterling silver necklace that says “Mum” was the first item to sell out, despite its hefty price. Philo, formerly at Celine, was one of the first high-level designers to take maternity leave. The necklace’s symbolism comes at a moment when people are questioning the low numbers of women in top creative jobs in fashion. More. Would it be rude to point out that it looks like it says “mumu”?
WALLPAPER* COVERS CARTIER EXHIBITION AT LOUVRE ABU DHABI
Curator Evelyne Possémé considers the impact impressionist and geometric artworks had on the Cartier aesthetic, examining how Islamic art’s influence was translated into intricate and vibrant jewelry design in a delicious feast of color and craftsmanship. More.
SPEAKING OF CARTIER, IS ANOTHER BOOK NECESSARY?
Two new publications about the company released this fall. At 17 pounds (!!!), Cartier: The Impossible Collection isn’t a book you can curl up with and pore over. It’s more of a luxe jewelry-book-as-décor, especially at $1,200. But the 288-page coffee table-sized book Cartier Design: A Living Legacy, which costs $65, “is worth every penny if you are a fan of Cartier design,” writes Marion Fasel. More.
HAWAIIAN JEWELER REPAIRS JEWELRY DESTROYED IN FIRES
A jeweler on Maui is working hard—and free of charge—to restore jewelry of the victims of the Lahaina fire. More.
MAKING JEWELRY GOT HER OUT OF A RUT
One recent grad’s story of making jewelry as a pathway to creativity and community. More.
OPPORTUNITIES
REGISTRATION FOR AUTOR 2024 IS OPEN
The event, in its 21st edition, will take place May 18–19, 2024, in Bucharest, Romania. Designers and artists in the field of contemporary creative jewelry are eligible to participate. So are galleries and schools. Deadline: February 15, 2024. Info.
CALL FOR ENTRY: AMBERIF DESIGN AWARD
Wearing jewelry gives us hope. For one thing, it strengthens our psyche. It communicates our personal courage and supports us in taking a concrete position. What does the jewelry look like that gives us hope today, strengthens us for crises, and carries us through them?” Deadline: February 1, 2024. Info.
OPEN CALL: SLOVENIA JEWELRY WEEK
The event combines exhibitions, courses, workshops, school projects from Slovenia and abroad, lectures by domestic and international guests, round tables, etc. The event will also include a competition event, where a jury of experts will award prizes for various categories of works. Deadline: February 1, 2024. Info.
Image: Slovenia
OPEN CALL: ARTIST-IN-RESIDENCE AT ANTWERP’S DIVA MUSEUM
Reap the benefits of time for research, the space and tools required for experimentation, and support.Grow as a maker, reflect on your work, and creatively explore new ideas. Residents will engage with the public by giving a talk and presenting their work at DIVA. Reimbursement of travel and accommodation costs up to €1,500, and a production budget up to €1,500. Residencies run 2 to 3 months long. Deadline: February 18, 2024. Info.
CALL FOR ENTRY: LATIN AMERICAN BIENNIAL OF CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY
To be held in Chile in 2024, the theme is Co-Becoming, Narratives of Possible Futures. Deadline: June 28, 2024. Info.
OPEN CALL: ADORNED SPACES
The 2024 SNAG x San Diego Conference seeks curators, organizations, schools, and individuals to offer a fresh look at the field of contemporary metalsmithing and jewelry through a multiple-exhibition and sale event. This juried event will highlight both established and emerging artists and celebrate innovations in metalsmithing and adornment. Deadline: December 20, 2023. Info.
PAGES
THE TIFFANY ARCHIVES
Hundreds of jewels, gems, objects, and ephemera invite you to discover the story behind Tiffany & Co. with a selection of objects from the house’s archives, the majority of which have never before been seen or photographed. More.
ADORNMENT AND SPLENDOUR: JEWELS OF THE INDIAN COURTS
Salam Kaoukji’s book is the definitive catalog of an unparalleled collection of Indian jewelry and luxury objects made at the height of the Mughal empire and the Deccan sultanates of the 16th and 17th centuries. The collection, widely regarded as one of the finest in the world, was assembled by Sheikh Nasser and Sheikha Hussa al-Sabah for The al-Sabah Collection, Kuwait, and reveals the beauty, sophistication, and diversity of Indian jeweled arts. More.
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