May 2024, Part 2

Art Jewelry Forum is pleased to share the news that members of our community find noteworthy. Is something missing? The success of this compilation of compelling events, news, and items of interest to the jewelry community depends on YOUR participation. If you’re a member of AJF at the Silver level or above, you can add news and ideas to this bi-monthly report by going here. If you aren’t a member, but would like to become one, join AJF here.

Listings gathered with assistance from Carrie Yodanis.

EVENTS
We have a dedicated page for them. Go here to see the list.

FEEL LIKE SEEING A JEWELRY SHOW?
Find these listings and many, many more on our dedicated exhibition page:

• Keith Lewis | The Saddest Aisle, at The Jewelry Library in partnership with Gallery Loupe through May 23
• Re: Play, at Baltimore Jewelry Center through May 24
• Anna Rikkinen, at Four Gallery through May 25
• The Strength It Takes to Be Alone, at Pistachios Contemporary Art Jewelry through May 26
• Bernhard Schobinger, at Galleria Antonella Villanova through May 30
• Confetti—A Celebration of Life, at Galerie Door through June 1
• No Place like Home, at the Metal Museum through June 2
• Flora Curiosa: Hanna Liljenberg, at Platina through June 5
• BETTINA DITTLMANN: M O S T L Y A I R, at Jewelers’Werk Galerie May 25–June 14
• Julia Maria Künapp: Traveling Light, at Sienna Patti through June 16
• OUT of the Jewelry Box, at the Museum of Arts and Design through April 1, 2025

FROM OUR MEMBERS

FINANCIAL TIMES INTERVIEWS SUSAN GRANT LEWIN
“The communications professional seeks out one-off jewellery creations that provide an intellectual challenge,” says the paper. Read “My Favourite Pieces: Susan Grant Lewin’s Decorations for Mind and Body” here.

BRACELETS, BANGLES AND CUFFS: 1948–2024, AT THE METAL MUSEUM JUNE 9–NOVEMBER 17, 2024
This exhibition features a remarkable collection of contemporary bracelets that reveal the wide-ranging creativity of artists working in this timeless form. Over 90 examples by international artists examine cultural, political, and personal meanings wrapped around a wearer’s wrist. The show highlights many works owned by exhibition organizer Helen Drutt, a renowned educator, gallery owner, author, patron of the arts, and advocate of modern and contemporary craft. Drutt adds historic context and scholarly weight to the diverse pieces on display, which illustrate a wide variety of traditional metalsmithing techniques, experimental methods and materials, and contemporary processes. More.

LISBON BIENNIAL’S JEWELRY SHOWS CELEBRATE A PRECIOUS DEMOCRACY
The theme of freedom is at the fore in works being exhibited to mark 50 years since Portugal’s Carnation Revolution, writes the Financial Times in another art-jewelry-focused article. Read Caroline Palmer’s article here.

TRANSFORMING THE PROTOTYPE 2, ON VIEW AT THE BJC MAY 31–JULY 26, 2024
The Baltimore Jewelry Center, Montgomery College, and Towson University invited students, alumni, emerging, and established artists to apply for the group exhibition. Participants received a collection of traditional vintage wax patterns which they transformed through additive or subtractive processes. The objective was to radically reimagine the prototype wax pattern into a bespoke object(s) or jewelry. Transforming the Prototype 2 was juried by Mary Hallam Pearse, Associate Professor of Art in Metals & Jewelry at the Lamar Dodd School of Art at the University of Georgia. Opening reception May 31, 5-–8 p.m. More.

MASS MIGRATIONS: SETH MICHAEL CARLSON, AT GRAVERS LANE GALLERY MAY 23–JULY 15, 2024
The jewelry industry has dark corners—human rights violations, political conflicts, and detrimental environmental impact, to name but a few. Jewelry is associated with opulence, celebration, luxury, glitz, and romance. Usually, minimal thought is given to the impact the industry has on the environment, animals, and human beings. Seth Michael Carlson is not only an outstanding craftsman, but he makes jewelry ethically and sustainably, which means the materials the jewelry is made from ensures fair wages, safe working conditions, and minimizing environmental degradation. He is concerned about animal welfare and environmental stewardship. Opening reception and artist talk May 24, 2024, 5–8 p.m. More.

TIME AND AGAIN, AT PISTACHIOS MAY 30–AUGUST 18, 2024
Features work from Elisa Bongfeldt, So Young Park, and Emily Rogstad. Each artists’ creative practice involves repetition, a deliberately labor-intensive process where smaller elements of each design are made by hand over and over again to build a larger, unified piece. This exhibition aims to highlight and celebrate the incredible craftsmanship each artist boasts. Opening reception May 30, 4–7 p.m. More.

WILLEM HOOGSTEDE, PAUL DERREZ’S PARTNER, HAS PASSED AWAY
“On the 4th of May,” wrote Pool Collective on Instagram, “on their way by bike to the Remembrance day at the gay monument in Amsterdam, Willem died of a heart attack. Willem was the kindest man, collector, guest curator, husband to Paul Derrez”—who owned now-closed Gallery Ra—”and the biggest support and friend. We will all miss him so much.” AJF offers its condolences.

WINNERS OF 32ND INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY COMPETITION EMPATHY ANNOUNCED
Nearly 75,000 PLN in prizes was distributed. The winner of the Grand Prix was Eva Fernandez Martos, from Spain. Second prize went to Eszter Sára Kocsor, from Hungary, and third place to Yotam Bahat, from the Netherlands. Prof. Sławomir Fijałkowski, Mari Ishikawa, Charon Kransen, Michalina Owczarek-Siwak, PhD, and Doreen Timmers served on the jury. More than 500 works by 295 artists from a record 45 countries were submitted. The post-competition exhibition offers an artistic perspective on “empathy” by artists from almost every corner of the globe. It is on view at the Gallery of Art in Legnica until July 21, 2024 (also see next listing). More information, including the winners of other prizes, is here.

WHERE TO SEE THE LEGNICA JEWELLERY FESTIVAL SILVER EXHIBITIONS
The grand opening took place May 10–11, in Legnica, Poland. Most exhibitions will be on view through June, with two open until July. See the exhibition schedule here.

JULIA MARIA KÜNNAP’S JEWELRY, SHOWCASED ON THE CATWALK
A show at Tallinn Fashion Week 2023 featured dancers from the Estonian National Opera & Estonian National Ballet wearing Künnap’s “melting, dripping” stone creations. Watch the mesmerizing video here. (Sienna Patti brought it to our attention—thanks!) Although the jewels are, sadly, difficult to make out—both for us and for the audience at the event—keep your eyes on the piano player’s cufflinks.

CRAFT ABROAD OFFERS JEWELRY AND METALSMITHING WORKSHOPS
Craft Abroad brings travelers into the studios of master craftspeople and artisans to learn traditional craft practices. Their inaugural set of workshops this summer—in Chiang Mai, Thailand, a UNESCO Creative City—will focus on filigree, metal-forming, chasing, and repoussé. Throughout the workshops, participants will learn about the history of Buddhist craft in Thailand while eating local food, touring the city, and taking advantage of everything Chiang Mai has to offer. This unique program creates avenues for cross-cultural education experiences that prioritize community engagement, cultural preservation, and global connections. Info.

BJC HAS ANNOUNCED ITS 2024–2025 RESIDENT ARTISTS
Congratulations to Ali Munn, Ashley Wingo, Bella Carlos, Chelsea Nanfelt Rowe, Felicia Mülbaier, Mary Hallam Pearse, Stevie Pniewski, Sara Bautista (aka Peggy Portals), yétúndé olábajú, and Zach Mellman-Carsey. More.

ROBERT SMIT TO RECEIVE THE ARCHEOMETRA LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD
The award is given to an artist who has enriched contemporary jewelry heritage over a lifetime of dedication to the field. It will be presented September 14, 2024, on at the second edition of the Orizzonti d’Autore Beiennial, curated by Thereza Pedrosa and held in Asolo, Italy. A retrospective exhibition dedicated to Smit will be on view at the Civic Museum of Asolo September 14, 2024–January 6, 2025. More.

HELEN BRITTON—ALL WE HAVE IS NOW: KIND WORKS FOR A TIRED WORLD
Like many, Britton feels more and more uneasy in our contemporary world. As an artist she could deliver criticism, make statements, or just resort to offering comfort. She decided on the last option and designed small, free, direct little drawings in silver: jewelry pieces that are witty, cherishable, tempting. See this exhibition—organized by Galerie Rob Koudijs—at the Chamber of Rhetoric, in Haarlem, the Netherlands, June 1­–2, 2024. Info. Also on view that day, in the same location: Marion Blume: Fragment of the Whole.

PREZIOSA YOUNG EXHIBITION TRAVELS TO ARCHIVIO NEGRONI
Featuring all the works of the three winners, the traveling show is currently at Milan’s Archivio Negroni until May 30, 2024. The exhibition then goes to the Oratorio San Rocco, in Padua, October 18–November 10, 2024. More.

HELP PISTACHIOS REBUILD ITS INSTAGRAM
Jerks hacked the gallery’s account. It has therefore been forced to set up a new account. It’s @pistachiosgallery—hop on there and click “follow” to help build their following back up!

APPLY TO PARTICIPATE IN NYC JEWELRY WEEK 2024
The 7th annual NYC Jewelry Week city-wide festival will take place November 18–24, 2024. The jewelry community is invited to be part of this celebration, focusing on consumer education and innovation. The open call welcomes thoughtfully planned proposals from artists, designers, curators, and retailers for exhibitions, talks, pop-up retail events, and other interactive consumer-focused events. Activities will take place both in-person and virtually during NYCJW24. Deadline: June 30, 2024. Info.

WATCH STEVEN KP MAKING MADEIRA/TIMBER
The RISD Museum commissioned the RISD alum and Young Artist Award finalist to create a unique work for its collection. KP, who works with wood as their primary medium, made a neckpiece from wood in the Manning Rare Woods Collection, which was donated to RISD in the 1970s and made available to students, faculty, and staff to use for special projects. Watch the making process here, in a three-minute video.

MARGO CSIPŐ WILL TEACH A CLASS ON EARRINGS
The Young Artist Award finalist’s earrings-specific course will explore symmetry, balance, weight, and mechanisms. Learn techniques such as post fabrication, small soldering, ear wires, hoop mechanisms, and omega clasps. Students will leave the course with multiple pairs of earrings that are ready to wear! Hosted by Baltimore Jewelry Center on Mondays, May 20–June 24, 6:30–10:00 p.m. Info.

EVERETT HOFFMAN WILL TEACH “SITTING AND SETTING”
Explore all the ways that metal and nonmetallic materials can be used to create one-of-a-kind settings to hold anything, from gemstones to found objects, with the Young Artist Award finalist. Learn the basic steps for making prong, tab, and flush settings, as well as settings made with alternative materials. Also explore ways to set odd-shaped stones and objects. Students will learn and expand on the techniques of soldering, cutting, and finishing, and will leave with one or two completed pieces. At Penland, May 26–31. More.

OTHER NEWS

“FOR ARTISTS, JEWELRY IS PART OF THEIR IMAGE, IT’S PART OF THEIR PERSONA”
CBS News reported on Ice Cold: An Exhibition of Hip-Hop Jewelry, at the American Museum of Natural History. Watch the segment here.

STEAL THIS JEWELRY
Find out about Melbourne’s radical street jewelry scene of the 2000s, when jewelry-making gangs subverted the hierarchy of precious metals as personal capital by creating objects to adorn public spaces. More.

GONE ASTRAY, AT CODA MUSEUM MAY 17–SEPTEMBER 22, 2024
We’re surrounded by objects that we need, use, like, and wear every day, from tools and equipment to jewelry and works of art. Their shape, application, material, and weight are familiar. Without thinking about it, we use them until they end up in the trash or at the bottom of a drawer. Form and function seem to have a self-evident connection, but there’s more going on, and so much more is possible. High time to look at all that with fresh eyes. Gone Astray—Jewelry and Utensils on the Edge of Reason, developed in collaboration with Ellen Maurer-Zilioli, brings together 150+ objects, by 29 artists, that show how these artists adapt, expand, or even challenge the rules, traditions, and clichés. The known and familiar are being dusted off. Info.

TAMARA SANTIBAÑEZ FEATURED IN THE QUEUE
For the multidisciplinary artist, meaning and identity are forged on the body. More.

THE MOST DARING JEWEL AT THE MET GALA?
Location, location, location. For Thom Browne’s interpretation of a garden degrading over time, Cynthia Erivo wore an archival bejewelled butterfly by Jennifer Behr on the back of her head, as well as jewels by Roberto Coin. More.

GLORIA STEINEM DESIGNS JEWELRY WITH JILL PLATNER
They met while filming a TV special. The feminist icon told the jewelry designer that her sister was a gemologist and her father sold antiques, including gems and antique jewelry. On screen, Platner showed Steinem how to carve a wax for a ring. Since then, the women have created a number of commercially produced designs. More.

A CARBON-NEGATIVE DIAMOND JEWELRY COLLECTION
The Skydiamond company centers around less waste, less emissions, and less destruction, so it creates diamonds from carbon dioxide taken from the atmosphere. Its eco-conscious stones star in a new collection of fine jewelry, along with recycled gold. More.

EVENTS

KORU8 SEMINAR PROGRAM NOW ONLINE
Speakers will include Terhi Tolvanen, Jorge Manilla, Katharina Dettar, Sarah Powell, Manami Aoki, Åsa Elmstam, and many others. Find a PDF that lists the schedule, all the speakers, and briefly introduces the lectures here.

VIRTUAL JEWELRY PLATFORMS AND THEIR CREATORS
Eliane de Luca Peres in Conversation with Jonathan Wahl. Learn more about this influential creator’s interesting background, point of view, and how she landed online. How does her platform enhance what she does, what has changed in the jewelry world/retail, what does it mean to her to have this exposure, and how does she curate it? From the 92Y. Online, free, May 21, 11 a.m. EST. Info and registration here. In previous programs, Wahl spoke with Marion Fasel and Valery Demure (also shown in photo).

OPPORTUNITIES

OPEN CALL: VENICE DESIGN WEEK SELECTION 2024
From the Contemporary Jewelry Association Associazione Gioiello Contemporaneo’s call is open to anyone engaged in designing or working with precious metals, gemstones, and other materials, including recycled or scrap materials. The award focuses on contemporary jewelry and is an ideal platform to increase awareness of your brand and acquire recognition in Italy. Theme: “Colors and Vowels,” inspired by Arthur Rimbaud’s poem. Deadline: June 18, 2024. Info.

OPEN CALL: INFLOW JEWELRY EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY
Open to all contemporary jewelry designers and artists, jewelers, collectives, schools, and galleries, regardless of age, education, location, or experience. Theme: Personal Narrative Spaces. Deadline: July 3, 2024. “Let’s imagine a project where our personal narratives intersect with the present in an artistic endeavour. Here, our journeys and our rich cultural background blend. This project merges timeless memories with the vibrant world of modern art, creating a collage that showcases the diversity and richness of our world.” More.

HOW ABOUT A JEWELRY WORKSHOP HOLIDAY?
Time to plan a summer vacation! The summer schedules for workshops ranging from four to eleven days are out for Haystack, in Maine; Arrowmont, in Tennessee; and Penland, in North Carolina. A wide range of techniques are being taught by leaders in the field, including Mallory Weston and Lynn Batchelder, winners of the 2022 and the 2016 AJF Young Artist Award, respectively.

PAGES

FROM JEWELLERY TO CONTEXTUAL ART
Presents the work of the artist and professor Elisabeth Holder and showcases her unique evolution. Coming from a classical goldsmithing background, she placed jewelry in relation to ancient signs and the ornamentation that emerged from them, pursuing the examination of materials in the charged arena between mastery and dialogue, and posing the fundamental question of what jewelry is and can be. This led to a paradigm shift. Jewelry was recontextualized. Illustrated with examples from fields such as architecture and nature, it becomes clear that such jewelry forms are never excessive and are at once Contextual art. More.

GABI DZIUBA & FRIENDS
With contributions by Vera Gliem, Christian Nagel, and Stephan Strsembski, among others, and an interview by Christian Malycha. Dziuba’s jewelry is stringent, laid-back, fragile, minimalist, glamorous, and progressive. Blister packs, coins, beans, or letters are turned into willful creations. Collaboration with close artist associates is characteristic of her work. This highlights the openness of Dziuba’s artistic approach to new trends—Pop Art, Minimal Art, punk, fashion. A fascinating biography, in which the visual artist, musician, designer, and entrepreneur has freely experimented with the traditional assignment of roles since the 1970s. More.

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