Schmuck has become a golden opportunity for new talents to reach out to a diverse, international audience. This category is pretty self-explanatory. Here we asked the jury to search for new talents in the field—a student, a new graduate, or an artist who still hasn’t gotten the recognition they deserve.

With the participation of Berndt Arell, Klara Brynge, Sally Collins, Mike Holmes, Agnieszka Knap, Panjapol Kulpapangkorn, Nichka Marobin, and Paulo Ribeiro

Sawa Aso, Binoculars (PANORAMIC-II), 2013, neckpiece, steel, iron wire, assembled, soldered, 158 x 165 x 55 mm, band 860 mm, photo Klara Brynge

Selected by Klara Brynge,
jewelry artist and lecturer in jewelry art at the School of Design and Crafts,
University of Gothenburg (Sweden)

“Sawa Aso is not a very new newcomer: She graduated from Burg Giebichenstein Kunsthochschule Halle in 2014 and that year was selected for the Schmuck exhibition. But I chose her jewelry from the exhibition Unter Diesem Himmelstrich/Under the Same Sky because the pieces stood out for me among young jewellers, and I would like to see more from her. They have a sense of humor that I like and also a feeling of belonging to another place. Having the shape and proportion of objects of use but stripped from their function, they become copies that in the translation become something else in themselves. I feel as if they are there to remind us of something.”

Exhibited at Unter Diesem Himmelstrich/Under the Same Sky, Schlegelschmuck, Munich

Helen Habtay, Turn Me On, Switch Me Off, 2015, brooches, (from left to right) rose quartz, switch, plastic, steel, 35 x 55 x 45 mm; pink marble, switch, steel, 40 x 55 x 25 mm; rose quartz, switch, plastic, steel, 45 x 35 x 55 mm, photo: Karin Roy Andersson

Selected by Karin Roy Andersson,
jewelry artist, manager of Four, and part of team Diagonal (Sweden)

“Helen Habtay, from the University of Applied Sciences Trier, Campus Idar-Oberstein, presented a group of fleshy pink brooches made of rose quartz and pink marble at Astonish. Switches were set into the stones and the title was Turn Me On, Switch Me Off. The sensual rounded stones with the distinct mechanical switches are, in my eyes, a genius illustration of love and attraction. Humour, a great sense for color and shape, mixed with great craftswomanship—those are the perfect ingredients for a new rising star!”

Exhibited at Astonish, International Hantwerksmesse, booth 715, hall B1, Munich

Nils Hint, Post Industrial Parade Weapon No. 6, 2015, brooch, forged iron, height approximately 300 mm, photo: Mike Holmes

Selected by Mike Holmes,
curator and manager of Velvet da Vinci, San Francisco (USA)

“Although I had first seen his work last year, Nils Hint from Estonia stood out as a newcomer to watch. His installation as part of the (Im)print exhibition was especially strong.”

Exhibited at (IM)PRINT, easy!upstream, Munich

Nina Sajet, Applecore Collier, 2013, neckpiece, porcelain, nylon cord, pigments, ribbon, 270 x 270 x 60 mm, photo: Jos van Beusekom

Selected by Sanna Svedestedt Carboo,
jewelry artist, contributing editor for, and part of team Diagonal (Sweden)

“Nina Sajet is not a newcomer per se, as she has already been working in the field since her graduation in 2010 from Artez Academy in Arnhem, the Netherlands. This year her poetic and dreamy work, with that uncanny bizarre twist, was selected for Talente 2016. I am sure we will see much more from Sajet in the future.”

Exhibited at Talente 2016, International Handwerksmesse, Munich

Edu Tarin, Mold C1, 2015, pendant, granite, silver, 80 x 120 x 80 mm, made in collaboration with Klein & Becker GmbH & Co, photo: Panjapol Kulpapangkorn

Selected by Panjapol Kulpapangkorn,
jewelry artist (Thailand)

“Edu’s piece is fantastic in both concept and quality of making. His piece makes me feel that two things are coming together: the beautiful form of the piece itself, and an empty space that provides room for individual imagination.”

Exhibited at Astonish and Talente 2016, International HandwerksMesse, Munich

Si-Xing Season Cheng, Made in China, 2015, brooch, printed silk ribbon, gilding metal, leather, 35 x 50 mm, photo: Sally Collins

Selected by Sally Collins,
jewelry designer, lecturer, and collector (UK)

“Contemporary jewelry is becoming increasingly popular in Asia, with a large number of Asian students choosing to study jewelry in Europe. The humorous use of Westernized stereotyping in these pieces is incredibly refreshing—it made me laugh out loud, and this exhibition and the work within stayed at the forefront of my mind for the entire trip.”

Exhibited at Shelf Life. An Exhibition by Staff and Students of BA Jewellery Design of Central Saint Martins, London, Vitsoe Showroom, Munich

Ignasi Cavaller Triay, Meminisse, 2016, brooch, plastic wallpaper, silver, gold, steel, 150 mm, photo: Paulo Ribeiro

Selected by Paulo Ribeiro,
director and founder of JOYA Barcelona Art Jewellery Fair (Spain)

“Ignasi Cavaller Triay has a very delicate vision of art jewelry. His final master thesis work is a nostalgic combination of the fear of losing the memory of his place of origin, the island of Menorca, and the reutilization of forgotten objects or elements from his hometown. This subtlety is combined with a precise technique and excellent finish. The personal fears and fragility as a concept and the excellence of technique provide Mr. Cavaller a brilliant near-future as a best newcomer.”

Exhibited at Schmuckgalerie tal20, Tal 20, Munich

Naama Bergman, Salt Vessel, 2016, iron mesh, salt, height 190 mm, photo Agnieszka Knap

Selected by Agnieszka Knap,
jewelry artist and curator (Sweden)

“Small crystals create a structure and different patterns. As times goes by, the crystal formation changes color from snow white to nuances of rusty brown. Naama Bergman’s experimental approach is something not to be missed. Carefully and with patience she weaves a net of steel wire that she transforms into jewelry and objects when the material is ready. Later on, a new process takes over the work and it continues even when the artist’s engagement is ended. Bergman’s methodology of investigating when the work is completed and how long it lasts before it dissolves is thrilling!”

Exhibited at Dissolved Revolved, Akademie Galerie, Munich

Lucie Davis, Jewellery Undercover, 2016, book, photo: Nichka Marobin

Selected by Nichka Marobin,
collector of contemporary jewelry, art historian, and founder of The Morning Bark (Italy)

“Each time I visit Schmuck I feel overwhelmed by the high concentration of ego circulating from exhibition to exhibition, from here to there over the city … so … I was very happy to discover someone who really has a playful, delightful, smiling twist on contemporary jewelry. Of course all the people who are at Schmuck are there for a specific reason … but sometimes you do not have to take things too seriously … and have the time to smile. A sprinkle of irony always helps.”

Exhibited at Shelf Life. An Exhibition by Staff and Students of BA Jewellery Design of Central Saint Martins, London, Vitsoe Showroom, Munich

Berndt Arell, director of Nationalmuseum (Sweden), 2016, photo: Sanna Sjöswärd

Selected by team Diagonal (Karin Roy Andersson and Sanna Svedestedt Carboo)

“The people who make the world of contemporary jewelry turn are, as we all know, not only jewelers. Important actors also include the people who write, curate exhibitions, who show, buy, and wear pieces—who makes the art field visible to a wider audience. Berndt Arell got hooked on jewelry last year after his visit to Schmuck 2015 and is already organizing an exhibition at Nationalmuseum Kulturhuset, Open Space, Mind Maps. Positions in Contemporary Jewellery, with a satellite program of exhibitions, creating a ‘mini-Schmuck’ this spring in Stockholm, Sweden. With such a flying start, we are convinced Berndt will do wonders for contemporary jewelry in the future.”

Seen hunting for great jewelry all over Munich

Soon on AJF—the last part of this series: 10 Best Munich Jewelry Week Moments

Melissa Cameron: Body Politic
Zorya (Daniel Pošta and Zdeněk Vacek): Virus