September 2022, Part 2
Art Jewelry Forum is pleased to share the news that members of our community find noteworthy. Is something missing? The success of this compilation of compelling events, news, and items of interest to the jewelry community depends on YOUR participation. If you’re a member of AJF at the Silver level or above, you can add news and ideas to this bi-monthly report by going here. If you aren’t a member, but would like to become one, join AJF here.
Listings gathered with assistance from Carrie Yodanis.
AJF LIVE WITH JEWELRY COLLECTOR, CURATOR, AND WRITER JORUNN VEITEBERG!
“For me, collecting has been an activity I equate first and foremost with happiness,” says Veiteberg. Last year she wrote The Jewellery Box, which is about her jewelry collection and covers 50 years of her life, from 1969 to 2019. Veiteberg will talk about why she became a collector, her passion for collecting art jewelry, the important link between collecting and remembering, and what jewelry can do for us. And of course, we’ll see lots of jewelry—a selection from her collection. She owns over 550 pieces by more than 200 jewelry artists from 30 different countries! For a minimum $20 donation, you can be part of this exclusive and interactive AJF Live event. At the same time, you’ll help support all of the programming and editorial content you rely on throughout the year. Via Zoom, Wednesday, September 28, 2022, at 12 p.m. EST, Purchase your ticket here.
AJF LIVE WITH BONHAMS
Emily Waterfall, the director of the Jewelry Department for Bonhams Auction House, will preview jewelry from the Crawford Collection. Bonhams will present its second artist jewelry sale on October 18, 2022. This follows last year’s successful $1.7 million Wearable Art sale, drawn from the private collection of Byron and Jill Crawford. It featured pieces by Pablo Picasso, Max Ernst, and Charles Loloma. The upcoming sale will include important 20th-century silver artists William Spratling and Hans Hansen; designers Tapio Wirkkala and Hervé van der Straeten; fine artists Louise Nevelson and Claire Falkenstein; and talented artist-jewelers Bjorn Weckstrom and Antonio Pineda. On Zoom, Tuesday, October 4, 2022, at 12 p.m. EST. Free. Register here.
FEEL LIKE SEEING A JEWELRY SHOW?
Find these listings and many, many more on our dedicated exhibition page:
- Pierce Healy and Annika Pettersson, at Platina Stockholm through September 24.
- Cycle by Katrin Feulner, at Jewelers’Werk through September 30.
- Morgan Hill: Getting Ready, at Ombré Gallery through October 2.
- Philip Sajet, Annelies Planteydt, and Beate Klockmann, at Ornamentum through October 2.
- Marie-Louise Kristensen, at Four Gallery through October 8.
- Pop It or Pin It, at Galeria Reverso through October 14, 2022.
- Steven KP | Over, Onto Itself, at Gallery Loupe through October 15.
- Mémoires d’Eau: Andrea Wagner, at Galerie Noel Guyomarc’h through October 15.
- Flowers and Wolves: Philip Sajet and Violeta Adomaitytė, at Galerie Door through November 5.
FROM OUR MEMBERS
POSITION OPEN AT BALTIMORE JEWELRY CENTER
The Baltimore Jewelry Center seeks a part-time studio assistant (15 hours/week) who is knowledgeable about metalsmithing and jewelry, as well as facilities management. The ideal candidate is an excellent communicator who enjoys supporting users of BJC’s space with the ultimate goal of leading everyone toward an independent studio practice. This position is focused on supporting the programming and daily management of the BJC, its studio and program managers, and its students and renters. Info.
NATIVE AMERICAN JEWELRY HAS STRUCK A CHORD WITH AUSTRALIAN SHOPPERS
Find out why in The Jewelry Journey’s interview with Jennifer Cullen, the owner of Four Winds Gallery, a gallery in Double Bay, Australia, that focuses on jewelry of the American Southwest. Listen to the podcast.
CHARON KRANSEN SEMINAR: “OLD WAYS VS NEW … AN EXPLORATION”
In conjunction with this fall’s SMG NW Jewelry Symposium, Kransen will offer a one-day seminar on October 14, 2022, from 10–5. Space is limited. Info.
HUNTER FROM ELSEWHERE WILL BE SCREENED AT DOK.FEST
See the documentary about Helen Britton at Munich’s Neues Rottmann theater on September 22, at 8 p.m. Info. Can’t make it? The director says she hopes to show the film at NYCJW and afterward plans to set it up as video on demand.
KARIN ROY ANDERSSON AND ZACHERY LECHTENBERG AMONG NEW ACQUISITIONS AT RIAN DESIGN MUSEUM
You can see the work in the upcoming exhibition Car Helmet, Hiding Place and Steller’s Scream: New Additions to the Collections, which will show 40 pieces acquired in the last five years. Through November 20, 2022. Info.
SEBASTIAN GRANT WILL GIVE THE ANNUAL DAPHNE FARAGO FUND LECTURE
Grant will present We Two: Exploring the Importance of Community and Collaboration in Black Art Jewelry. Black jewelers occupy a crucial space in the history of American craftsmanship. As they sought inspiration from African culture, Black artists and designers built a creative community that made their successes possible. Explore this history in a talk that highlights the work of Black jewelers Winifred Mason, Art Smith, and Joyce Scott. In person at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, October 2, 2022, at 2 p.m. Free, but tickets must be reserved in advance. Register.
KIFF SLEMMONS TO LECTURE ON JEWELRY’S PLACE IN CULTURE
Reflecting on the last 50 years of her work, Slemmons will examine jewelry’s capacity for meaning and metaphor, its reflection of identity, its potential to offer protection, and its release from convention. Presented in conjunction with the installation American Jewelry: The Susan Grant Lewin Collection, at the Yale University Art Gallery. On Zoom, September 30, 2022, at 3:45 PM EST. Register.
MICKI LIPPI EXHIBITS PART OF HER JEWELRY COLLECTION
Like many artists, Lippi traded work with fellow makers when she traveled to events. It’s a great way to build an interesting collection. This selection of 35 pieces, curated by Maru Almeida, includes work created by a wide range of artists over a couple decades. Through October 10, 2022. Learn more.
MÒNICA GASPAR WILL GIVE THE 2022 PETER DORMER LECTURE
The UK’s major annual applied arts lecture, held in memory of Peter Dormer, aims to continue the debate about applied art and society. Titled Like oil and water, experiments with craft and theory, Gaspar’s lecture will draw from her experiences as curator, writer, and educator in the fields of craft and product design. Online and on-site at Royal College of Art, Gorvy Lecture Theatre, October 3, 2022, at 6:30 pm (UTC+1). Register here by September 29, 2022.
EVENTS
ŠPERKSTRET 2022: SEPTEMBER 22–24, 2022
The international conference of contemporary jewelry, held in Bratislava, Slovakia, is an active platform for contemporary jewelry discussions held by professional jewelers, collectors, art theorists, curators, and the general public. This edition aims to stimulate the way of thinking that we can look at contemporary art objects that work with their own performance, timeliness, the principle of the game, and other socially stimulating strategies. Website. IG.
AUCTION: ART AS JEWELRY AS ART
This online auction, from Sotheby’s, will run September 23–October 4, 2022. “A growing trend in the market is unique pieces that allow collectors to wear their art,” states the auction house. Includes about 150 pieces that can be worn as adornment or exhibited as part of a collection—works by Louise Nevelson, Calder, Dalì, Claude Lalanne, George Braque, both Pomodoro brothers, Pol Bury, Kiki Smith, Louise Bourgeois, Picasso, Max Ernst, Ettore Sottsass, Jesus Raphael Soto, Man Ray, and many others. Info.
BRILLIANT & BLACK: AGE OF ENLIGHTENMENT
After last year’s triumphant selling exhibition celebrating Black jewelry designers, Sotheby’s’s new edition of Brilliant & Black focuses on enlightenment and the continuous representation of Black talent. Curated by Melanie Grant, who wrote about it in British Vogue. In London, September 22–October 2, 2022.
GOLDSMITHS’ FAIR: SEPTEMBER 27–OCTOBER 9, 2022
From wire work to 3D printing, traditional goldsmithing to intricate engraving, ancient techniques combine with modern-day technologies, ensuring there will be something for everyone with a passion for fine jewelry and contemporary silver. A cohort of new exhibitors joins master craftspeople whose careers were launched at the fair over the last four decades. In London. Info.
OBJECTS OF DESIRE: SURREALISM AND DESIGN 1924–TODAY
Curated with Vitra Design Museum, the exhibition will explore design from the birth of surrealism in 1924 to the current day; spanning classic Surrealist works of art and design as well as contemporary surrealist responses. At the Design Museum, in London, October 14, 2022–February 19, 2023. Read the NYT review.
COLLECT: MARCH 1–5, 2023
Traveling to Schmuck? While you’re at it, tack on a few extra days for a side trip to London to take in this show, too! Info.
OPPORTUNITIES
RENWICK FELLOWSHIP INVITES APPLICATIONS
The Smithsonian American Art Museum and its Renwick Gallery fellowship program is the oldest and largest in American art. Open to scholars from any discipline who are researching the art, craft, and visual culture of the US. Deadline: November 1, 2022. Info.
GRANT FOR TEACHING CRAFT ARTISTS
Via its Teaching Artist Cohort grant, the Center for Craft will award 21 mid-career teaching craft artists a one-time, unrestricted grant of $10,000. Applications are due November 30, 2022. Info.
INVOLUTION: MAKING JEWELLERY, CREATING CHANGE
The 19th Jewellers and Metalsmiths Group of Australian national biennial conference seeks submissions for conference papers, workshops, and exhibitions. The conference will take place in Perth in October 2024. Submission deadline: November 30, 2022. Info.
PAGES
EVELI: A JEWELER’S MEMOIR
An intimate journey through the life, work, and influences of Eveli Sabatie, the protégé of Hopi artist Charles Loloma. Gathers stories and poems as well as photographs of stunning Hopi and Moroccan-inspired mosaic jewelry. A profound reflection on the earth through the medium of jewelry. More info.
ESTHER BRINKMANN
See the Swiss artist’s oeuvre from the past 30 years. Her work is characterized by the meaning she bestows on the ring, its relationship to the hand and, perhaps most surprisingly, to its case. She prefers processed and textured materials, which now also include new component forms, techniques, and substances since her time living in China and India. From Arnoldsche.
ICE COLD: A HIP-HOP JEWELRY HISTORY
Journalist and curator Vikki Tobak presents the bling culture of rappers and their jewelry. With 40 years of iconic imagery and compelling stories, this visual history shines a light on the world of hip-hop, where mega stars from Run-DMC to Tupac and Jay-Z to Cardi B flash brilliant custom pieces to show status and personal style. “It’s almost impossible to separate the gemstones from the bigger narrative of politics, street savvy, and historical complexity,” says the author. From Taschen. Read the review in the NYT.
NAVAJO AND PUEBLO JEWELRY DESIGN: 1870–1945
Author Paula A. Baxter explores the work of Navajo and Pueblo craftspeople during a 75-year period when Native American jewelry became increasingly popular in the US and international marketplace. A richly illustrated study of jewelry-design history, and a must-have for collectors, jewelry designers, and students and scholars of Native American arts. Info.
WHAT I’M WEARING
Caroline Billing, The National’s director, started this project during the first lockdown in New Zealand, in 2020. People on Instagram were asked to share what jewelry they were wearing. It was turned into a book because “it felt relevant to create an object … as a tangible reminder of a time when we were all in uncharted territory and trying to understand, and make meaning in a new quotidian.” Info. Order.
INTERESTING LINKS
A “HERMIT” JEWELER BECOMES A MUSEUM CURATOR
Emefa Cole first exhibited her bold, sculptural jewelry at a craft fair. Now she’s taking on a new role at London’s V&A. Read the article.
NECKLACE CELEBRATES WOMEN AND A 50-YEAR REIGN IN DENMARK
Georg Jensen collaborated with the architecture firm Big to create a necklace celebrating Danish Queen Margrethe II’s 50th year on the throne. The 50 sterling silver blocks in the one-off necklace highlight 50 inspiring Danish women of historical and cultural importance. Learn more.
AN ICE CUBE NECKLACE CELEBRATES THE VALUE OF WATER
Made by Paris-based design studio Golem, the unfortunately named OoOoooOoooOh la l’ice necklace—really? Lice?!—melts within 30 minutes. The cool accessory underlines water scarcity as temperatures rise across the globe … but it’s perfect for clubbing. Info.
IN DALLAS, EAST MEETS WEST IN JEWELRY
“Although other exhibitions have explored the influence that countries such as India and China have had on the firm’s jewelry,” writes The Magazine Antiques, “Cartier and Islamic Art is the first to focus on the broader category of the Islamic world.” Read the article.
RAQUEL BESSUDO PUBLISHED IN GARLAND MAGAZINE
The jewelry artist wrote about a tapestry by Esteban Leñero that was inspired by the churches of Michoacán. Read it here.
ADORNING: QUEER PACIFIC IDENTITY
Curator Vanessa de Gruijter discusses jewelry and body decoration in relation to decolonization, cultural identity, and diversity. Read it here.
INDIE JEWELRY GETS SPOTLIGHT AT VENICE FILM FESTIVAL
Independent jewelry designers are finally getting space on the red carpet, reports the NYT. See more.
RECYCLED GOLD
An article about jewelry made from precious metal recycled from our e-waste.
TIKTOKERS TALK JEWELRY
Say that five times fast! An article about the benefits and challenges of showcasing jewelry on TikTok.
INSIDE THE DREAM, A NEW FILM ABOUT BULGARI
Follows a necklace in the Magnifica collection from its inception—design, stone selection, and production—to its introduction around Zendaya’s neck at the 2021 world premiere of Dune at the Venice International Film Festival. Watch the trailer. Read a review. Watch on Amazon Prime Video.
INCREASINGLY, MUSEUMS SHOW JEWELRY DIGITALLY
The NYT reports that jewelry collections in museums, including the Islamic Museum of Art, V&A, and Schmuckmuseum, are increasingly online and providing more information about the history of the jewelry.
15 ARTISTS TO KNOW FROM INDIAN MARKET
Vogue highlights some of the jewelry artists who showed work, as well as those creating garments. Read it here.
SEMEN JEWELRY
After jewelry made from breast milk, jewelry composed of semen comes as no surprise. Warning: The jewelry itself is innocuous, but this article is not for those who get queasy easily.
